Cities 2 Cathedrals 1.

Breakfast was quickly worked off with the hill start. The mind wanders to later destination of Haverfordwest. Is there a Haverfordeast, North etc. Is it a crossing of the river Haver, I proclaim. Then normality returns as Barbara has spotted a milestone. Getting going with panniers on a slope works off more breakfast.

Cycling gives you an instinct of what’s to come. When tootling along a quiet Pembrokeshire lane to look up and see a castle at the top of the hill, you just know where the road is going. Llawhaden Castle is a fine ruin: a testament to the power and wealth of the Bishops of St David’s.

Narberth and Haverfordwest were our main stops, punctuating undulating quiet green lanes. First orchid of the year, competing with the cuckoos for attention. These towns differ in their attitude. Though the latter town might be the county town, Narberth has the air of a destination for the well heeled.

And to the havens of the coast. The undulations give way to steep fast downs and steep slow ups. The rally cars (Knights of the Island, all 20 years + vintage) wheeze as they ground past us. Rather them than the pillock in the camper van: cheers pal, we really wanted to walk up that hill cause you couldn’t pass through a wide barn door.

St David’s just before the rain. The Grain pizza place is safe sanctuary from the rain.

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