Author: Grant and Barbara

A short stay after packing the bikes for Japan. We/re in Haeundae, a beach area. Very similar to Hyundai phonetically. The former translates to sea and clouds terrace. The latter “modern times”.

It does seem very modern – a bustling tourist area. With a beach with a loud music stage, just the thing to help with a 4:15am get up time. The beach has a magnificent display of sandcastle art. Hope it doesn’t rain.

Our meander took us to the Nurimaru APEC House, built for the 2005 Asis Pacific Economic Conference. Of the all the leaders of the countries who attended (21), only Putin remains, though the Sultan of Bruneo was in power then too and remains in power. Anyway, it’s a fine building on the Dongbaekseom peninsular.

South Korea has been great. A modern country respectful of its culture and history. Polite, clean, good infrastructure. Most of the cars seemed to have dark glass, which seemed spooky.

You see a lot of people wearing masks. “Koreans wear masks for a combination of health, social, and personal reasons, deeply rooted in a culture of collectivism and public etiquette. Key reasons include preventing the spread of illness (cold/flu), protection from high pollution levels (fine dust), and a long-standing cultural acceptance of masks as a courteous gesture in crowded areas.”

CCTV is everywhere. People wait at pedestrian crossing for the green man with a discipline I don’t have. No litter and no bins. People bow from the waist with a straight back. Road workers are helpful when you approach them. Credit cards are more common than phones for paying and often you have to sign a screen – though that works a lot better than our scratching a finger on a screen X.

We’ve not seen any cattle on this trip, though meat is common. Porridge oats is lacking in their diet which is something they need to address. Coffee shops are very common.

“고마워요 한국” 

The tour leader laid the marker down. “It’s not a competition; on previous trips not many people have made it up this hill (5.5km at 8% incl 800m at 15% with a 21% pitch).” We don’t live in the Welsh Valleys for nothing, challenge accepted.

Our final day cycling in South Korea was a microcosm of the whole trip. The first part rural and hilly, sparsely populated, green with lots of happy frog and cuckoo sounds. The second was flat, back on the 4 rivers path, entering denser urban area, sharing the path with many other users out exercising – toilets reappear as do multistories.

Busan has some 3,3 million residents. During the Korean War it became the capital for a while – the only major city not to fall to North Koreans. South Korea’s second-largest city and a major global port, it is a “vibrant coastal metropolis, known for its beaches, mountains, and fresh seafood. Located in the southeast, it offers a distinct, gritty, and authentic atmosphere compared to Seoul.

Tomorrow after bike packing, we’ll scratch a tiny bit and see.

In case you wondered: Veni, Vidi, Vici. More challenges to come so onwards with memories of inserting lungs back into correct cavity to keep us grounded. And always fine views.

South Korea’s no3 tourist destination. Over 1million visitors to swell the 250000 population, though not all at once. The main attraction are the burial humps. Lots of them. Amongst the visitors are the most non Koreans we’ve seen so far.

A longtime ago South Korea was divided into 3 kingdoms. The Silla area had a dynasty lasting from (circa) 70bc to 950ad. For some reason they started burying their kings in large mounds. These lasted unraided for milllenia. The first to escavate – it is said – was by the occupying Japanese. Even then the treasures seemed to be a slow burner until the 1970s when they started to be promoted. One of them is opened up. Most of the treasures are in a museum.

They make for an interesting walk through some old woods. Leading to a fantastic bridge – built using essentially traditional methods about 15 years ago. It’s on the site of the original. Great craftsmanship.

Back to death. All the mounds reminded me I haven’t noticed any graveyards. Cue a search. With pressures on land, 90% of Koreans are cremated after a 3 day traditional ceremony.

The mounds also brought crazy golf for giants to mind, Given the fines and imprisonment threatened for going on them, I decided this will remain only a thought.

A good rest day.

A short flat day by bike. A highlight of travel. From crab to war to steel.

The first main stop was a recent war memorial. It’s near where they discovered the wreckage of Roks Munsan, a South Korean carrier, and the 770 student soldiers who died. Simply and well done it makes you pause and think about two countries (USA and Russia) dividing one country and the continuing fall out. Not to mention the casualties on both sides (840000dead or missing soldiers, estimated 2.5 million civilians. A time to be quiet.

A large manufacturing plant was a reminder some countries still make things at scale. Turning away from the sea, we continued until a steel works appeared on the opposite side of the river. It seemed to go for days. Ponang steel works. Built from 1970 onwards. One of the world’s largest – it’s output is 5-7times greater than Port Talbot in recent history. Makes you cringe why we’ve lost our steel industry and this thrives. It was colourful too.

First good bit of rain soon passed and was a nice reminder we’re on the shoulder of the season – heading into the wet spell. By the width of the river banks there’s a lot of rain to come.

Street art was fun throughout. Amazing what a spot of colour or some quirky statue does to perk a place up.

Gyeongju is our rest day tomorrow, before the final day of cycling in South Korea.