It rained today for the first 60 miles. Sarajevo’s mountains were shrouded in cloud. Heading west to the coast among with most of the traffic which also kept us company through the tunnels that reappeared. When the rain did stop it was easy to appreciate how water has shaped the landscape, from lakeside villages to gorges to reservoirs.

Entering Mostar, football provided a common currency: the rhythm of tribal chants send the same everywhere. The old bridge, rebuilt in 2004 after its destruction in the Balkan war looks a set piece. Tourists are fodder for the numerous stalls: and why not? The ice-cream is excellent.

Bosnia is a beautiful country with moor great variety of places and people. Defined by mountain ranges and religion.

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