Leaving Mostar’s bustling tourist trap you are quickly into quieter residential areas. Large new churches vie for attention. Strangely the housing becomes more ‘western’ and new industrial units are dotted around. It’s also noticeable how the weather affects the terrain: from yesterday’s lush broad leafed woodlands to today’s rocky scrub.

Entering Croatia, it’s welcome to the EU. Immediately more traditional Christian: we haven’t seen one mosque thus far. The sparkling Adriatic arrives and we descend to our sea side overnight spot. Apparently people come here for holidays: you couldn’t tell!

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