The mini tour we started with around the main sights shows a proud energetic city rebuilding. Perhaps with the same vision that put in Europe’s first electric tram 1895. The 92_95 war damage is not hidden nor glorified, just speaks for itself.

Then a visit to the Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide shocks you into silence and shame. Told simply, assertively and with little rancor, the exhibits tell the true story of the horror we in the West watched and did nothing for too long. The living legacy is 2.2%of the land mass contains an estimated 20000 landmines.

Archduke Franc Ferdinand’s historic assassination spot is nearby. The events this unleashed came full circle with tbe Balkan Wars. The contrast that these recent combatants are applicants to the EU to share in the peace dividend of internationalism whilst we seek to leave is stark. Why don’t we learn?

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