Author: Grant and Barbara

Numerous highlights today kept us entertained. Iya Valley displayed its steep V shape and azure coloured river scampering over white rocks. The climb up Unpenji mountain was a lovely way to meditate about the wisdom of monks building a temple at the top.

Up (雲辺寺) is the 66th temple of the Shikoku Pilgrimage, built on top of Unpenji Mountain in Shikoku. It is the highest point of the entire pilgrimage. It is also called the “Koya of Shikoku” – a place where monks in the past can study the landscape from a high panoramic point of view. Maybe they took the cable car (Japan’s fastest) to reach Nirvana sooner

Unpenji has a wondrous display of 500 Arhat stone statues. According to Buddhist legends, Arhats are saints who gathered for the Councils when Buddha reached Nirvana. Each status has its own unique physical features, emotional expressions, and pose. Some of them are dancing happily, some are still and stoic, and some are angry. I remembered the scary Dr Who story “Weeping Angels” and tried not to blink. Difficult when the ride’s sweat was still running.

It was all downhill from there apart from when it wasn’t. A really cute combine harvester rounded the day off.

High up on the mountain so steep,
Where the forest is ancient and deep,
Sits the “Temple in the Sky,”
Where the pilgrims hike high,
And the ascending cyclists weep. (with joy).

The 88 Temples of Shikoku (known as the Shikoku Henro) form a 1,200-kilometer circular pilgrimage route that is widely considered the spiritual soul of Japan and one of the most culturally significant spiritual paths in the world.Its profound importance stems from a unique mix of religious tradition, psychological transformation, and local cultural heritage.

1. The Spiritual Footsteps of Kōbō Daishi The pilgrimage acts as a living monument to Kūkai the 9th-century founder of Shingon Esoteric Buddhism. Every temple on the loop is an ancient site where Kūkai is said to have trained, meditated, or spent time.
2. A Physical Metaphor for Enlightenment. The 1,200-kilometer loop spans all four prefectures of Shikoku Island. It is engineered as a physical representation of the four stages of the Buddhist path to enlightenment:
   Tokushima (Temples 1–23): Represents Hosshin—Spiritual Awakening.
   Kōchi (Temples 24–39): Represents Shugyō—Ascetic Training and Discipline.
   Ehime (Temples 40–65): Represents Bodai—Attaining Enlightenment.
   Kagawa (Temples 66–88): Represents Nehan—Entering Nirvana.
   Completing the final temple (Okuboji) represents Kechigan, the ultimate fulfillment of one’s vows and the letting go of worldly desires.
3. The Culture of Osettai (Radical Hospitality) The historical importance of the route has shaped the entire culture of Shikoku Island. Because locals historically could not leave their daily lives to walk the trail, they developed the tradition of Osettai—giving free food, drinks, and shelter to passing pilgrims. By supporting the pilgrim, locals believe they are directly serving Kōbō Daishi and earning spiritual merit. It is widely celebrated as an authentic, beautiful example of community kindness untouched by overtourism.
4. Complete Inclusivity Unlike many religious trails worldwide, the 88 Temples route welcomes everyone equally. The temples span various Buddhist sects and freely open their doors to people of all religions, nationalities, and life goals. Whether modern travelers walk the traditional 50 days, bike it, or take a tour bus, they are equally embraced as o-henro-san.

So now you know and can tell your friends. Cycling from Kochi to the Iya Valley takes us through dramatic landscapes, featuring crystal-clear blue rivers, towering gorges, and secluded mountain villages. Which means hilly with decent descents.

The vine rope bridge was a bit ropy – as in it’s now vine wrapped around steel cable hiddent under brown plastic. Thankfully.

Today’s ride was gorgeous, literally and metaphorically, from Matsuyama to Kochi. An incredibly scenic journey across the rural, mountainous heartland of Shikoku. Stunning rural landscapes as we crossed the mountain spine of the island. The numerous tunnels eased the climbing.

For a large part we rode by the Niyodo River known for its vibrant “Niyodo Blue” water. Narrow twisting back roads amongst mist hanging forest covered gorges. Even the rain conspired to add a warm steamy atmosphere.

The early highlight was one of Shikoku’s 88 temples.

Kaiganzan Iwayaji, the 45th of the 88 temples on the Shikoku Pilgrimage Route, is located in a sacred mountain with rich history. Its temple precinct, surrounded by towering rock cliffs and primeval forests of sawtooth oaks, has been designated as National Scenic Beauty.
Iwayaji is a sacred place located in a 700-meter mountain and is affiliated to the Buzan sect of Shingon Buddhism (the head temple is Hasedera in Nara).
Legend has it that, in 815, Kobo Daishi came across this place while in search of a sacred spot and encountered a female mountain hermit called Hokke, who had been from Tosa (present Kochi Prefecture). Having been awed by the venerability of Kobo Daishi, the mountain hermit embraced his precepts and presented him with the mountain where she had been practising asceticism before dying a natural death. Deeply moved by her benevolent deed, Kobo Daishi carved images of Fudo Myo-o from both wood and stone. The wooden image was installed in a newly-constructed temple hall as its principal deity, while the stone image was enshrined in a cave in order that it was hidden from the public, thus making the entire mountain deified.

We saw numerous pilgrims, akin to the Camino walk. They visit all 88 temples. The explanation awaits tomorrow’s cycle.

Kochi, faces the Pacific Ocean to the South. It has twice as much rainfall as Shikoku’s other main cities and is also the most typhoon prone of Japan’s major cities owing to its location directly exposed to the open Pacific Ocean from which the storms enter the country. It has twice received over 50 cm (20 in) of rainfall in a day from a typhoon. We got off lightly today!

A rest day, spent resting. Most of it was taking in and appreciating Matsumaya Castle. Built from 1602 onwards, rebuilt after fires in the 1800s, and bombing damage in 1945.

It had its own Capability Brown to divert the main river. Stonemasons to craft the huge chunks of granite. Skilled carpenters to build the massive gates. All high tech including different types of wood to keep the insects down. Not much info on the toilets. I suspect they’d be amazed at the electronic contraptions the Japanese use now. Push the wrong button and you’ve got tears in your eyes.

Much like we are taking a peek into the past, I wonder what the then residents would have made of Matsumaya now, with trams, cars, and buildings jostling to fill the space? Compared to today’s 0.5 million it was a new castle town of 5-10000, consisting of sumurai retainers, builders, merchants and their families. Like any medieval castle town really.

It was a refreshing change to go around a non-European castle of this vintage. Still holes for arrows, guns, stones. The armour was a cut above ours in the fashion stakes.

Barbara explored the famous Dogo Onsen (hotspring); I was a happy bike shed fairy.

Tomorrow back to the green hills and temples.

Fastest ever 100k ride. Averaged 32km/h. By a strange coincidence the ferry we were on from Kyushu island to Shikoku island was exactly the same. If only I had ridden my bike whist on the ferry I could have beaten it.

Our introduction on Shikoku took us via a lovely coastal road (constant but fairly quiet main road) and then into Matsuyama. Which was then a bit of a shock coming into a 500000 person city with busy traffic. We’ll explore here tomorrow.

It may well be things will quieten down. This island, compared to Kyushu, is smaller – famous for the sacred 88 temple Buddhist pilgrimage, deep mountain valleys and more rural.

One thing the islands have in common in numerous graveyards. Large and small in abundance. By the roadside, up hillsides, in middle of villages. This is partially due to a cultural tradition of individual family plots being passed down through generations. Geography also plays a roll as cities and towns are concentrated on the coastal and flat areas.

The conundrum of today is why did the slow worm cross the road?