A bus transfer to Nasushiobara where we start the next leg. A good stop at a Temple/Shrine area – Nikko Toshogu Shrine. Which prompted the memory of the first hotel I stayed in USA, Hotel Nikko – San Francisco 1991. Just in case it comes up in a quiz, you now know.

The Shrine brought home the wealth, status and power of the ruling Shoguns from 1603 – 1868. In the same period in the UK we went from the Union of Crowns through the Stuarts, Cromwell, Hanoverians, Victorians. No democracy in Japan, a huge feudal isolationist state.

It is also the home of the original carving of hear no evil, see no evil, speak no evil monkeys. Not the mantelpiece ornament we have at home then. Sold a pup.

Apart from the Dutch and Chinese. The Dutch donated some artifacts for the development of the Shrine in the 1600s. Wonder what they got in return? Two of the massive laterns are made from Portuguese iron of the same vintage. Mind boggles about the logistics of the procurement process.

It’s also a fusion of Shinto and Buddhism co-existing, until a decree post 1868 they had to separate.

The trees, Japanese cedar and umbrella pine are huge, planted 400 years ago. I wonder what stories they can tell. Like tall pieces of whispering grass.

Tomorrow saddle up and get the show gunning down the road.

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