Lots of time for reflection today. Who invented hills? Did the road builders get paid by the metre of road or climb? We were riding through the deep, heavily forested ridges of the Central Alps. This mountainous corridor is known for its incredibly crisp air, dense cedar and cypress forests, and isolated mountain streams. It’s also closed in the winter.
We started at what is said to be one of Japan’s most famous historical treasures. Tsumago-juku was a major post town along the ancient Nakasendo highway connecting Kyoto and Edo (Tokyo). It was the first town in Japan to preserve its Edo-period rows of wooden buildings. Matches are not encouraged. Barbara is busy checking if she went through here when she walked the Nakasendo route 25 years ago.
Once we crested the pass we dropped into the Ina Valley, a region famous for its sprawling agriculture. Nestled between the Central and Southern Alps, the towns are known for their tiered fruit orchards (especially apples, pears). None of which appeared at our dinner.
Lots of monkey poo: another reflection was if they were perched in the trees above playing “poo cyclist”. The noise of the forest was an acoustic treat – I even stopped singing to listen.
Tomorrow we continue upwards.
Travelling reflections 