A rest day. A translation of our tour blurb. One of Bulgaria’s oldest towns, Veliko Târnovo has as its centrepiece the magnificent restored Tsarevets Fortress, citadel of the Second Bulgarian Empire. We didn’t see that though hearts magnificent might be a little overdone. Historic Târnovo is tucked into the dramatic bends of the Yantra River, clasped by an amphitheatre of forested hills. This means it is steep up and steep down.

Bulgaria’s 19th-century National Revival splendour is easy to relive along historic lanes such as ul Gurko. Our hotel is there and it is a lovely 17c lane. The history here is too much for my wee brain to take in. I think it is summarised as fought over by everybody, a golden century (pick one), and heroes.

Which meant I enjoyed the rest day. Rested for a few bumps tomorrow. Excellent food.

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