From one regional capital, Alba Iulia to another, Sibiu. The former with a population of 65k is where On 1 December 1918, the Union of Transylvania with Romania was declared. The latter os known for Germanic architecture in its old town, the legacy of 12th-century Saxon settlers. Population 425k. That’s for tomorrow.

The first decent hilly day for a while. Our route is undulating, crossing some hills between plains. Great views and lungs full of air. Every bit of land is worked, neatly. A lot of it by hand. The villages are tidy and full of people watching and waving at these strangers doing non productive things.

Horse and cart is seen quite often. So avoid the fresh dung. Cars seem mainly new and higher end models. Outside both Alba Iulia and Sibiu posher apartments or houses are springing up.

Herds of cattle and sheep, the latter unshorn – in this heat? – tended to by men in traditional clothes. Slightly incongruous to see an old lady walking the street using crutch in one hand and carrying a sickle in the other. They laughed at us in a friendly way.


Lovely day. We passed a town Ocna Sibiului which is an ex salt mining and works area. The pools are now salt bathing areas, some saltier than the dead sea. We explore Sibiu tomorrow. In a restful way. More and serious climbing on Monday.

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