A fast developing city which feels young, vibrant yet traditional. Patisserie vie with the coffee bars. Wide boulevards absorb the traffic with ease. Colourful, a throwback to tbe communist days. Modern global brands are apparent though do not dominate. We’re can learn from their cycle lanes and pedestrian crossing systems.

Families enjoy Sunday lunch in tbe restaurants. Perhaps forgetting that not so long ago they might have been spied on: the House of Leaves Museum is a chilling reminders of the controls of the former totalitarian state (cf we welcome GCHQ et al as protection of freedom for its modern eavesdropping).

Why didn’t I know that Mother Teresa comes from here? Just a square, no statue. Tbe generosity of the Albanians extended to sheltering Jews during WW2.

Then back to our hotel rooftop bar to bring up the average age.

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