A reminder about the generosity we’ve experienced. Stopping for an ice-cream and biscuit, the lady waved us away when going to pay: a gift. We see that on the smiles and waves of the people we pass: universal greetings that transcend different spoken languages.

Today we saw the remnants of a communist industrial complex which once covered 145 hectares and employed 12000 people (1962-91) and now clings on. Colourful graveyards decked in flowers. Subsistence farming evidencing crop rotation we learned in school. A turkey herding her chicks (or is a brood of such chicks known as a kebab?). Nodding donkeys, both in the flesh and priming the oil fields.

Then we find Tirana: a bustling capital city with hordes of bars, coffee shops, barbers; restaurants are harder to find. To explore tomorrow.

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