Into a huge basin, Mount John Observatory gives a perspective of Lake Tikapu down below. The draught of Chinese tourism is felt here, selfie sticks competing with star gazing domes.

Lake Tikapu is our stop on the way up to Rex Simpson Hut, our overnight bunk house. It is amazing what good food can be rustled up on a small stove. Pre dinner entertainment was provided by a cloud show: fast changing shapes and colours. Post dinner caberet was the Milky Way: photos do not do it justice.

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