667 – 2 Llanddowror to St David’s

Cities 2 Cathedrals 1.

Breakfast was quickly worked off with the hill start. The mind wanders to later destination of Haverfordwest. Is there a Haverfordeast, North etc. Is it a crossing of the river Haver, I proclaim. Then normality returns as Barbara has spotted a milestone. Getting going with panniers on a slope works off more breakfast.

Cycling gives you an instinct of what’s to come. When tootling along a quiet Pembrokeshire lane to look up and see a castle at the top of the hill, you just know where the road is going. Llawhaden Castle is a fine ruin: a testament to the power and wealth of the Bishops of St David’s.

Narberth and Haverfordwest were our main stops, punctuating undulating quiet green lanes. First orchid of the year, competing with the cuckoos for attention. These towns differ in their attitude. Though the latter town might be the county town, Narberth has the air of a destination for the well heeled.

And to the havens of the coast. The undulations give way to steep fast downs and steep slow ups. The rally cars (Knights of the Island, all 20 years + vintage) wheeze as they ground past us. Rather them than the pillock in the camper van: cheers pal, we really wanted to walk up that hill cause you couldn’t pass through a wide barn door.

St David’s just before the rain. The Grain pizza place is safe sanctuary from the rain.

667-1 Pontardawe to Llanddowor

First city,  Swansea. Which prompted a thought. How are modern cities chosen? They places I think of as cities feel like cities. Glasgow, Manchester, Bristol. Cardiff is beginning to feel like a city.  Swansea I think of as a town. A good town of course with a lot going for it: more if it can shake off its inferiority (to Cardiff) complex.

Captain Cat
Balancing act

Fine murals, never vandalised

Today’s route is familiar territory, heading up the old railway line to Gowerton.  Then the coastal path through to Burry Port. Yesterday’s CARTEN signs are still up. 

Carmarthen’s imposing Council offices frame a change of landscape.  An old inland port, the Mayor still has the title Admiral. Near our lunch bench boats brought minerals in from Nova Scotia and took emigrants back. 

Carmarthenshire is a fine county.  Lots of rolling hills.  We juggle between the NCN 4 and the Carten route. Roads traversed on road bikes are a different proposition with panniers.  Plenty of time to admire the hedgerows and spring flowers.

Wales 667 Cycle

A cycle tour of Wales taking in its 6 cities, 6 [Anglican] Cathedrals, across 7 Places. About 600 miles / 1000 km of road cycling with 35000 ft / 10000m ascent.

Swansea / St Davids / Bangor / St Asaph / Brecon / Newport / Cardiff

Swansea is a City without a Cathedral.

Brecon is not a City and has a Cathedral. I was surprised Newport has a Cathedral – it has, the grandly named “Newport Cathedral of St Woolos, King & Confessor”.

For completeness, the Catholic Cathedrals are in Swansea, Wrexham and Cardiff. For an overview of what City Status means, head over to the House of Commons Library.

H4DTM Cardiff to Home

Washing our way out of the very quiet Cardiff rush hour, today was on familiar tracks. Taff Trail north, hang a left onto the Cynon Taff Trail, down a big hill and home.

Wales was looking resplendent in its freshly hosed greenery. Our waterproofs needed to be worn to justify bringing them. So everybody happy.

Home to start planning….

H3DTM Thornbury to Cardiff

Just a short hop we were thinking yesterday, will we arrive too early? A thought amplified by last night’s power cut. For some reason this was linked to the water supply. When the lights came back on, the water stayed off. Until just before we left. The club house was put to good use.

The Severn crossing was damp. Still fun, just damp. Thinks heated up when I used the back of my pedal to remove some skin. Today we were alongside the A48 for a large part, swerving to take in Roman Caerleon. Entering Newport, the Transporter bridge is closed for renovation: imposing structure.

So 1000 miles each and no punctures. And then one each in quick succession. The Newport locals know how to spread broken glass over the cycle ways.

We arrive in Cardiff via the Gwent levels. Full of evidence of the heavier rain we’ve missed. Then a change of mindset to get into city cycling.

A longer day than anticipated, changing weather and landscape. Just enough time to patch the inner tubes before enjoying Ted and Margaret’s hospitality. Tomorrow home.