Orient Express – Page 5 – Travelling reflections

OE Day 25 Albac to Contesti 96km

The ride takes us further into Transylvania. Rolling road criss crossing with an old disused narrow gauge railway and both with the River Aries.

There is a fair amount of old industry along the way, mainly forestry related and possibly a Soviet Legacy. Old women all in head scarves and pinnys walk the road. The men seem to be engaged in a conversation that prevents them from moving.

Another Welsh weather and hill side day. Then we turn to go up to the small commune of Coltesti where we have a rest day. Most places have two names Romanian and Hungarian, reflecting the population.

Cycling, Orient Express, Romania

OE Day 24 Beius to Albac 80km

A very different ride. Very green (later downpour explained that), hilly (1000m in 10 miles or so is OK by me). Lovely cooler temperature.

The villages are interesting. Many houses have relatively bland fronts yet hint at richer Court yards and inner sanctums. Dotted with older people with rich lived in faces and shrunken jaws, skin baked from a life in the sun. They wave generously yet must wonder what’s that got to do with the price of tomatoes.

Wood piles evidence the heating. It’s very mich like Swiss Alps. Not as pristine and perhaps the better for it.

Of course this may all be fueled by the evil blackberry liquor which was flowing at dinner. You don’t notice it until you stand up and find yourself on your knees.

Tomorrow back into the refreshing rain. Just like home.

Cycling, Hungary, Orient Express, Romania

OE Day 23 Gyula to Beius 104km

We were leaving the Schengen region so a proper passport control between Hungary and Romania. EU citizens show id. Us idiot [Brexit] folk need the full stamp treatment from both sides. Efficient though, UK Passport control could learn. (Sorry, realise wasted hope). The only issue was Michael traveling on an Emergency USA passport (original stolen in Paris). The issue was the lack of a stamp showing when he’d entered EU. Hungary has an issue with immigration (back onto familiar territory).

Everything a bit cooler and more green today. The main change across the border was villages. In Hungary there was large gaps between places and then they were quite big. More places in Romania and smaller. Lots of veg being grown. And building work, much incomplete. Even a new church in small place which had 3 others. Why?

The currency is the Leu. Yet to get a feel for costs. Beius looks like it’s having a makeover. It certainly got a good washing down just after we arrived. Nice day.

Cycling, Hungary, Orient Express

OE Day 22 Lakitelek to Gyula 120km

The maps of routes don’t show wind. Today was a good strong crosswind as in slightly not a head wind. Luckily there was no tree cover so we were able to enjoy it for the majority of the ride.

A little cooler, as in you use a lower temperature in fan ovens. The poor ground looked parched. You can imagine how dust bowls start.

We were mainly on cycle paths along the side of the roads. When on the roads and at junctions the drivers are incredibly polite and caring. We’re told that changes tomorrow in Romania.

The few places we pass through looked like working rural towns on a Sunday morning before church. Even when the shop didn’t sell coffee the assistant came out to point out where it can be found. Pointing and smiling is a good universal language.

Hungary is famous (I read) for it spa towns. A few we go through have that holiday place feeling. The lowering water table will be a problem.

The long climb up starts gently tomorrow.

Cycling, Hungary, Orient Express

D21 Budapest to Lakitelek 124 km

We leave civilised Budapest and the Danube (for now) and head acrossthe Hungarian Plain. It covers 56% of the land mass of Hungary.

The National sport of Hungary is water polo. How do these things arise? We didn’t see much water today. Just parched landscapes dotted with the remains of a few dessicated cyclists.

The villages are smaller. Friendly though as people enquire in broken English (which is better than non existent Hungarian) what we are doing. I was thinking the same about what are TESCOs doing here?

Our crew do their usual excellent and quiet background work. One goes ahead to mark any detours. Ryan’s turn today: he’s the mechanic too from San Diego. Sam from Quebec backmarked. Balasz was on lunch duty: Gergo was driving the luggage van. The latter two are from Hungary. They rotate these duties around. Balasz organises all the evening meals where they are provided, and buys all the lunch food. Ryan has a 1hr “mechanic shop” every day for fixing things you can’t do yourself or advice. Gergo is in overall charge, doing the daily briefing.

One more day in Hungary. A plains day too.