Category: New Zealand

Lake Matheson, Haast Beach and Pass, Lake Wanaka, Lake Hawea were the backdrop to today’s walking and travelling.

Early morning mist over Lake Matheson jostled with the photographers to frame the best view of sunrise. I suspect this place is special most still days – even the spider’s webs glistened as never before.

The slow road could have been designed that way to show off the varying terrains. Haast Beach has some [rare] original swamp woods: the critically endangered Hectors Dolphins showed enough fin to gain attention.  Or was that the effect of the magic mushrooms? The Haast Pass (as recent as 1965) joins the developed South with the remoter West.  To be savoured at the pace of the repairs underway.  Then the ‘richer’ agricultural lands of the South – with noticeably less tree cover.

Wanaka and Hawea are fast developing as Queenstown overspill.  Property everywhere is expensive: more importantly so is the wine.

A short hop to a beach at Punakaiki delivered a coved treasure: the sandstone teaming with life that seemed to be enjoying the sun and surf as much as the human intruders.

We were a day or two early for the Wild Food Festival in Hokitika, thus avoiding the sweet meats of some poor castrated sheep. This place specialised in jade. Like most places, the cafes and bakeries are great – something we can learn from.

The final walk was rescheduled – the road to Fox Glacier not due to reopen for two weeks.  The rate at which they are repairing whole hill sides puts our pot hole complaints into perspective.  So we had to slum it with Franz Josef – though the Maoris probably never got to meet this Austrian emperor.

Sunset over Mount Tasman and Cook accompanied supper – we’re getting the best of a respite in weather.

The landscapes are lush forested areas nestled along coastal strips by mountains. Settlements are few are far between.  State Highway 6 is our route – a single carriage road with one lane bridges.  Who says Wales needs a North South dual carriageway – this one does just fine, with plenty of space for the bikers.

Traveling south to Punakaiki, the damage of the last two storms, in the previous few weeks, is all too evident. That the roads are open at all, as is the sea front motel we stop at, shows the resilience and preparation.  Even the tourist paths through wooded areas where swathes of trees have fallen acrosss the routes have been mainly cleared.

Changing landscapes as we cross the Southern Alps to the Western region – the latter the only one where the population is falling.  That may be confirmed in today’s census which we were part of. Kiwi fruits, hops, apples all compete for position along the farms.

Charleston danced for us with some potent caffeine and a quirky museum. The pancake rocks defy explanation.  And the sand flys persist!

The ride into the start of today’s 12.5k walk takes us past some of the area damaged by recent storms and floods. Swathes of areas of mud slides and debris.  Only 2 weeks later the roads are nearly all reopen for business.

Just a “waka” today – a cheeky ground bird who ferrets around in any package left lying. Red and black beaked gulls compete for scavenger status.  A busier trail on the Abel Tasman route though plenty of room for all.

Then three hours on a Catamaran exploring the coast and coves: slowly cooking we baste ourselves to help the sun’s rays take our mind off itchy sandfly bites.

A mirror walk to get out of Nydia Bay, ending in Duncan Bay.  The eco-credentials of the excellent lodge may improve by providing jam in jars – removing the necessity to wash the plastic individual portions and separating the foil to tin waste.  Around the area you see how old boats and vehicles, in this former forest station, are left to become part of the countryside – you make call it junk heaps if you wish.

One fan tail lingers long enough to be captured on pixels.  Slogging uphill we meet on mountain bikes about to descend – a strange occupation. Duncan Bay is a haven for canoeists and sandflys. Barbara sheltered in the water whilst they digested my feet – though doing so sneakily so the lumps and itchiness only comes later.

We stop in Matueka for two nights with the luxury of a shared washing machine. Poor thing.