Category: France

We’re deep into Alsace Lorraine or Alsace Moselle as it’s now called. Heading for Munster, where I was hoping to see people serving mash potatoes (Monster Mash…). Have to be satisfied the people here are referred to as Munsterians. The historical truth including recent is rather murkier of course with the territory being fought over. 85% of buildings destroyed in WW1.

Now it’s a nice wee place to wander through. Route March to begin with to find Barbara some new cycling sandals.Temporary fix gives us time to explore the Protestant church. Entering Lutheran country so expect a laugh a minute. Most of the textile factories are now shut. The storks are a great sight.

To get here was over a col which has featured in a few Tour de France. I suspect they were faster and didn’t stop for photos. Skiing better in winter with supporting Infrastructure. Before that was a lovely rail trail path. Here theRoute. Almost alpine in nature. The ascent is for us like chinning combining the Bwlch and Rhigos into a continuous ascent of 600m in 10 miles. With a decent descent. Sweeping pay signs that say Ferme Schmidt hints at a change.

Tomorrow into Germany.

Plombiers les Bains to be precise. A spa town and like our spa town is a living proof of hey day might be in the past. The 1600 residents may differ though. Fine buildings, many slowly fading. Nice place though.

It’s also at the top of a hill. Which is how our day finished. We started along a nice wide canal. Soon the landscape opened up to what could have been mistaken for rural England with its arable fields, rolling hills and patches of forest. Apart from the giveaway of the stylish (and still deserted) villages.

After we realised the flags weren’t for us, we thought we’d struggle with stops today, Bastille Day. Luck prevailed and coffees in Tabacs and cafe kept us topped up. Lidl Aldi and InterMarche open too. The roads were quiet, which is more than can be said of the fire crackers last night. Almost a diplomatic incident: google translate was too polite to offer me suitable words. (Another early rise to avoid the worst of the heat).

Plombier have its name to a dessert: I wonder what we’re having tonight?

An earlyish 6:30 to avoid the later heat. Good plan. Soon leaving Troyes we pick up a cycle path Le Velovoie des Lacs. And came across some lakes. Here’s the Route

First grapevines of the trip. Marvin Gaye was happy. Champagne ones too according to the sign boards and increasingly larger Chateaux. Apart from that vast areas of farming punctuated by the occasional deserted village. In between our first cattle (white), sheep (also white).

Chaumont is notable for its 1856 railway viaduct. It is impressive. A lovely day.

Troyes, a living monument of 13C onwards buildings. Not preserved in cotton wool; adapting renovating and breathing. A great mooch around, hugging the shade offered by the narrow streets.

Churches and Cathedrals abound competing to outdo each other in scale and opulence. So lots of stained glass and one lacy rood. Cool though, so we loiter. Most seem from the 12C onwards and paid for by the trades of the day, mainly textiles. The mystery is where did the congregation come from to fill them all? The population was smaller then and I can’t imaging the surrounding country was very busy. Maybe they toured around to find the best confession.

Early bed, early rise to get out whilst it’s cool.

A lovely day along very quiet country lanes. From the dense Paris it hasn’t taken long to get into the sparsely populated rural France. Most of today is in Ardenne-Champagne province. Here’s the Route.

Quiet, deserted even, villages. We were lucky to find a Boulangerie, but we did and good it was too. Vast open landscapes punctuated by the occasional water tower. Crops of sunflowers 🌻 doing well. Hemp. Corn. No grapes.

Getting hotter with a fan oven like wind to make sure we toast evenly. So far the insect count is low. Probably hiding in the shade.

We arrive at our first rest stop, Troyes. Gives an opportunity to sort out packing system. Looks a fine wee place to explore tomorrow.