Author: Grant and Barbara

From a town of 2000 to a Capital of 200000, the world’s windiest city (on average). The connection is a railway and river.

The Remutaka Rail Trail was created on the incline section of the old Wellington – Palmerston North railway built in 1871, closing in 1955 when a tunnel was built. It’s fame comes from the Fell rail system – a horizontal wheel system on a raised line, allowing tradition coaches to be used. One of only three in the world, (only remaining one is on Isle of Man) this is a 1:15 incline: traditional lines run out of puff as I did!

I ran out of steam and traction early on – it’s called a push bike for a reason. Gives plenty of time to take in the great scenery and admire the builders and railwaymen who operated the line. The poor fireman must have earned their crust – no dilithium crystal warp drives – just shovel the coal and get on with it.

The descent is more gradual and we then follow the Huka River trail (more gravel to help sooth the sitbones) almost all the way into Wellington.

Geology lesson, thanks to Bob who used to live here. “For most of today we were at fault! e.g. The Wellington Fault, a major strike-slip fault, akin to the San Andreas. Large (magnitude 8) earthquakes occur on this fault about every 500-1,000 years.

 Earthquakes played a big role in Wellington’s early history.  The city was founded in 1840.  In 1848, a big earthquake in Marlborough (northern South Island) shook Wellington, destroying many brick buildings.  (The British built houses like they did in UK, with bricks …)  These were wisely rebuilt with wood, so the small city came through the 1855 Wairarapa Earthquake much better. [We passed through Featherston] along the Wairarapa Fault for ~10 km . This was the fault that ruptured in 1855.

 After one of these earthquakes, many settlers decided that they had seen enough and decided to move back to UK. They didn’t get far, however.  Their ship ran aground in the channel, whose sea floor had risen by several metres.  This channel has been filled in now; it’s where the airport is, between Evans Bay and Lyell Bay.”

 Now you know!

Tomorrow a rest day. Just capital…..

Entering wine country. Martinborough has a quite unique street pattern in the centre – inspired by the Union Jack. It’s surrounded by 20+ vineyards, some for tasty wine (I’m reliably informed – it’s white so what do I know even if I could drink it).

A very rural day. Leaving Palmy (as that’s easier to write) the unforecasted rain started and kept up in increasing intensity for the next 48k. Which happily coincided with a cafe stop. One main hill today – as it was raining I couldn’t see it, just felt it!

Then a lovely bit through farm lands surrounded by hills reminscent of the Scottish Borders. Happily there was a scarecrow competition (or what is left of them).

Sign of the day – which I only thought about afterwards was a large board outside a primary school. “HIGH ACHIEVEMENT NEEDS SACRIFICE”. Bit of tough love there. “Sorry Johnny, you are the weakest link – BANG – now the rest of you, pay attention”. Who needs corporal punishment with this approach – maybe it’s only one sacrifice a term to keep the kids alert.

Tomorrow a railtrail to Wellington and the last ride on the lovely North Island.

Today we followed the Manawatū River along part of its descent to the sea. Somedays it’s hard to capture in words the scenery, like today. We were spoilt with white clouds sharing the space with a blue sky, the clouds framing the distant hills.

This is an area of unique geology I read – which does go to explain the hills and the gravel beds. A short river in many ways, it is also one of the fastest when it has snow melt – you can only wonder at that given the width of the river bed.

The Manawatū is unique among New Zealand rivers in that it crosses a mountain range. The river has formed a “water gap” across the mountains because it is older than the Ruahine and Tararua Ranges. Most rivers arise from an already-existing range of mountains or hills, but beginning about 3 million years ago the central North Island mountain ranges began to uplift across the Manawatū’s current course. Because it drained a large catchment, the river had sufficient flow to keep pace with and erode the rising mountains, eventually forming the Manawatū Gorge; other rivers were unable to and were diverted into the Manawatū instead.

After exiting the Manawatū Gorge, the river carries rock and sediment down from the mountains. During glacial times, with the prevalence of ice, snow, and bare mountains, this erosion increases and forms a stony elevated terrace. During an interglacial, while the mountains are forested, gravel outwash is reduced and the river cuts down into the terrace, forming a gorge. This cycle has created four distinct terraces between the Manawatū Gorge and Palmerston North.

The Manawatū Plain was seabed 5 to 6 million years ago, and as it was raised above water by the action of the Australian and Pacific Plates it buckled, forming five long and low ridges (or anticlines) parallel to the mountains, which impede the flow of the Manawatū, Rangitikei, and Oroua Rivers, forcing them to flow southwest rather than directly into the Tasman Sea

The route went up and down to the river many times. The cycling was a bit like the Cornish or West Wales coast. No coffee stops for the first 120km – remote farms alongside the road.

The old guy who ambled past my table outside the coffee shop put a lot into perspective. “I’m just a sad lost soul, they’ve all gone. My friend used to sit where you are everyday with me – she’s gone too”. He came across here when he was 5 from Northern Ireland. I told hime he still had his memories – he smiled and said “yes and they are up the wall, they’ve all gone: stay safe with your cycle and enjoy”. And with that he ambled on into the shop. Reminded me of the John Prine song “Hello in There”.

“So if you’re walking down the street some time and see some lonesome eyes; don’t pass em by and stare, as if you didn’t care; say hello in there, hello.”

I’m glad I stopped to listen and say hello.

Tomorrow into wine country as we go to Martinborough.

Abode of Tai the Hunchback. Doesn’t say what to nor what with.

A very easy day cycling – we were all taken in the support vehicles to the end point. Safety – the road diversions meant our planned route was a lot busier with heavy lorries, narrow road verges etc.

We’re in Taihape, which is the gumboot capital of the world – hence a big Wellie, and an annual Gumboot Day. The 1716 population must turn out in 3432 wellies. Surprised it’s not a youtube hit. It did help me provide background music for a Thanksgiving party – Billy Connolly hit the spot, praise be.

It’s moved from a railway and transport town to a farming town and stopping off place for tourists. From the signs they must have a lot of competition for the (Western) churches. Maye a wedding town – we ate in the Gretna Hotel which had some nice local edgy atmosphere.

Tomorrow back onto rural roads as we head to the metropolis (90000) of Palmerston North. I can think about the new word (to me) I learned on a notice about this place – divarification. Must get on with it and stop prevaricating……

…and so it was! Most folks went on the Tongariro 22km hike across the volcanic landscape. The early mist lifted for them and a fine time was had by all. A common theme is to re-name places, peaks, falls etc, after the Lord of the Rings or Hobbit characters and scenes from the films.

Which is all double Dutch to me having never seen the films nor read the books (Frank Herbert’s Dune and Asimov’s I Robot and Foundation novels were my choice). So my engagement, and desire to engage, with the conversation is limited.

“Fancy going with us to Gollum’s Pool? Short drive and a waterfall”. Gollum is a character – I think I prefer the tradition name Tawhai Falls. They are really pretty – the sound of kids jumping in (against the rules I suspect), laughing and having a great time, filled the air.

Annoyingly there were also people taking photographs – getting in the way of mine! Plenty of time though and rather than pose for Gollum selfies I preferred to just watch the mesmerising bubbling, gurgling, water churn along it’s blue cast way.

Back in town nothing was happening. Not even tumbleweed could be arsed to put a show on. Suited me fine as I wandered the deserted streets for the 10mins it took.

And then rest. Tomorrow we start a chunky stage of 4 days to Wellington which looks great fun.