Grant and Barbara

Trans Europa: Ljubljana

On a visit to the Castle we learned about the history of Slovenia. In a nutshell – Celts mugged by Romans mugged by Barbarians then Slavs. Along came the Hapsburgs and Austria-Hungarians. The WW1 (an Axis occupied territory and a battle ground with Italy. Then into Yugoslavia and coming out in 1990s.

Today the capital is melting with tourists and competitions for shade. A very compact and picturesque tourist trap centre. It proved to be an ideal rest spot – the inclination was to move slowly. If at all. Good food.

Tomorrow up and over the hills and descend into Italy.

Slovenia, Trans Europa

D26 Trans Europa Celje – Ljubljana

A day following rivers as they wound their ways through the pretty valleys – which they had probably created in the first place. I wonder if they had planned for humans to build bridges?

This trip two years ago had to be rerouted as flooding had just taken out the bridges and roads. Today’s cool in the shade and toasty in the sun/

We crossed a number of interesting structures: from an 1895 “enter at your own risk” to a wooden covered 1935. The latter opened up opportunities for the folks on the opposite side to the railway line.

The lines were happily busy with huge cargo trains with pedestrian ones taking theit chances in between.

Two great highlights and a negative. The latter was the amount of Japanese knotweed along the river bank adjacent the railway. Maybe it had been brought in originally to stabilise the embankment. That didn’t distract from the main show: the gorgeous Alpine looking scenery and the chimney stack.

360m of it – the tallest in Europe. Which of course gets you to think what is the tallest in the world – 419.6m in Kazackstan. Britain’s tallest is at Drax, some paltry 258m. Right said Fred.

The Trbovlje Chimney (Trboveljski dimnik) of the power station, built in 1976, is the tallest flue-gas stack in Europe. The 360-metre (1,180 ft) high flue-gas stack was poured in 210 days, and required 11,866 cubic metres (419,000 cu ft) of concrete and 1,079 tons of reinforcing steel. A high chimney was required for the site to ensure that emissions were removed from the deep, narrow valley under all weather conditions.

The power station shut in 2016. Of course it’s been climbed and there’s a YouTube video of two of the juggling standing on the rim. Not for me!

There’s quite a lot of old (coal) industry hidden in the valley sides, and new – including a huge and immaculate glass bottle factory dating from 1860.

Then into city heat as we enter Ljubljana and our “rest” day tomorrow.

Slovenia, Trans Europa

D25 Trans Europa Ptuj – Celje

Celje is Slovenia’s 4th largest city. Pre Roman origin and population of 38000. The Roman’s had a quite substantial settlement here, now 3m below current ground level – apparently due to continual flooding. Maybe their drainage wasn’t as good as we are led to believe?

An almost Swiss day as we climbed out of one plain and descended into another. Slovenia’s economy is varied – they’ve done well since emerging from the former Yugoslavia. The infrastructure for cycling is excellent. Everywhere is so clean. Coffee and cake is good too.

Petrol stations thus far on the trip have not noticeably been large chains – if you see any of those it’s BP with a few Shell. Electric cars are not very common. Electric bikes are. A few “SPARS”, not to be confused with Spas of which there are many. Lidl more common, some Aldi. I have to hunt for MnMs…..Smoking in public places / cafes has increased noticeably as we’ve moved through Hungary to here.

Slovenia, Trans Europa

D24 Trans Europa Moravske Toplice – Ptuj

Entering serious wine drinking territory today. Via prosperous looking villages and towns. Each village seemed to proudly present its Fire Station.

A shorter day, to spend some time in Ptuj which traces is origins back to the Romans. A military fort at a strategic crossing point of the River Drava. Today’s 18000 population rely on tourism and culture. Former European City of Culture 2012. What with that and and ploughing championships it’s all happened here.

It’s on a plain. To get there we went via Jerusalem, which was a bit surreal but offered lovely views. But no coffee as it’s a Monday. Just like home?

You get to realise how much you rely on good signal. Its poor in this otherwise lovely place. So I may return to today tomorrow as it were.

Hungary, Slovenia, Trans Europa

D23 Trans Europa: Heviz – Moravske Toplice

From an old Spa town in Hungary to a new Spa Town in Slovenia. In between lovely quiet villages (and why not on a hot Sunday?) and plains: either with thirsty sunsflowers or harvested crops. Shade came in the trees, generally happily overlapping a few ups.

Moravske Toplice – a fought over village going back to the Crusades. Along comes oil exploration in early 60s: they find little oil, but hot gaseous water. Profitably mined for its restorative properties. (NB weight loss isn’t one them by the look of the tourist clientele hoovering down the buffet).

A nodding donkey some 40km back into Hungary is also for oil – from American exploration in 1920s and peaking in the 40s. Now it looks a bit lonely.

Before then we’d had a coffee outside a cafe opposite a fine church. Inside the locals were on the beer, this being a Sunday and 9am. Owned by Wetherspoons? Head to church afterwards?

We had a lovely lunch in Barabasszeg, hosted by Ildi and Balazs and their friends from the village. Food always taste good when you know the trouble people have taken to make it. A great excuse to linger longer – too soon back into the heat.

Lots of interesting things to look at gives ample cooling stops. There’s a more Germanic (Austrian?) feel to places with towns signs in German Inn places.

A lovely wooden bell tower from 18C – then [as with our buildings] you read it’s been reconstructed several times. So are we celebrating the age, the design or the thought of it. Not that it matters, it was a fine sight with a welcome cold tap nearby.