We were last here 5 years ago, though memories play tricks – the mudpools we saw then are about 18km away. Rest day I remind myself, rest day. Luckily there’s a lot to do from the doorstep.

There’s a wee public park with thermal pools bubbling away merrily. A reminder not to go in as it’s 100C, acidic or alkaline, H2S – why do people go to Spa’s I wonder? New Zealand gets about 17% of its electricity from geothermal activity, mainly along a line in the direction we’re cycling tomorrow to Taupo. A workman tells me they now have to reinject the water they’ve used – so even more sustainable.

That it’s an unstable area is brought home by the scaffolding over the heritage listed museum, built in 1908 as baths. Damaged in a 2016 earthquake and found not to be up to standard. It’s taken til this year to overcome the engineering design hurdles (aka finding money?) and will complete in 2027.

The landscape around Lake Rotorua is also frothy – though things are growing and birds active. Must have strong constiutions.

Rotorua itself is a tourist town, well built on a grid pattern and easy to get around. Lots of physical activity or remedial things. Curious about a no gangs here sign on a medical centre I went in and asked…..it means gangs in the sense we know it, and they were insignia to show who’s who. These have been banned in an effort to control them = the guy says they also don’t tend to bother any non-gang person. I left feeling relieved and hoping my German cap wasn’t the same as any local insignia.

All in all a good rest day. And learning Scotland tanked Australia at rugby was the icing……

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