May 2019 – Travelling reflections

Sarajevo

The mini tour we started with around the main sights shows a proud energetic city rebuilding. Perhaps with the same vision that put in Europe’s first electric tram 1895. The 92_95 war damage is not hidden nor glorified, just speaks for itself.

Then a visit to the Museum of Crimes against Humanity and Genocide shocks you into silence and shame. Told simply, assertively and with little rancor, the exhibits tell the true story of the horror we in the West watched and did nothing for too long. The living legacy is 2.2%of the land mass contains an estimated 20000 landmines.

Archduke Franc Ferdinand’s historic assassination spot is nearby. The events this unleashed came full circle with tbe Balkan Wars. The contrast that these recent combatants are applicants to the EU to share in the peace dividend of internationalism whilst we seek to leave is stark. Why don’t we learn?

Bosnia, Odyssey

Odyssey Day 15 Foca to Sarajevo 50miles 1000m

Continuing to follow a river gorge, the tunnels return. This time relatively benign, tbe longest was lit. This didn’t encourage any nor considerate driving. Blind corner, let’s overtake: what cyclists coming towards me at great speed?

Tbe first half of today’s 80k was back up to 1200m. Tbe second half back down. On the way up settlements are thinly spread, with the occasional honey stalls. Trees are mainly oak. Tbe second half is entirely different landscape, far more worked and alpine in feel.

It’s hard to comprehend that only a short time ago tbe places we pass through today were at war with each other. Scattered graveyards must contain nations griefs and ambitions.

Arriving Sarajevo it’s time to get back into cycling in city mode, dodging traffic and lights. To explore tomorrow, tbe initial wander suggests could be a long day.

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And it’s wet….

Bosnia, Montenegro, Odyssey, Uncategorized

Odyssey Day 14 Niksic to Foca

Montenegro reminds us of Wales. Wet, green and hilly. Wales doesn’t have the tunnels they have here though. A spectacular ride along a lakeside with tunnels through the rock face. Pity they are dark, bumpy and narrow. Adrenaline levels climb a tad.

Into Bosnia. What’s been made clear is don’t stay from the the established road surface. Full stop. Landmines from the 1990s are not cleared throughout the country. Dogs return admist the Alpine landscape.

The common thread in all the countries? Frogs croacking and snails crossing the road. Dogs. People smiling.

Albania, Montenegro, Odyssey

Odyssey Day 13 Shkodra to Nicsic 74miles 1400m

Leaving Albania and it’s northern regional capital via a reasonably quiet highway, shepherds were replaced by single men looking after their cattle, well cow.

Border crossed, the rain caught up with us. Driving seemed to improve but that was soon dispelled by the car crashes. The almost immediate appearance of fences to mark off land was in stark contrast to Albania’s relative open land. Montenegro feels a little more prosperous though. Vineyards appear (and later prove that Montenegro wine is not that bad!)

After lunch we ascend, then ascend some more, weaving with a railway track. The numerous monuments and crosses dotted around hint at turbulent pasts. Nicsic feels ok: smoking still very common place.

The return of snappy dogs: Albania’s win out so far for the best behaviour.

Albania, Odyssey, Uncategorized

Odyssey Day 12 Tirana to Shkoder 62miles 245m

Negotiating Tirana traffic kept the adrenaline flowing. No apparent rules for vehicles, bikes nor pedestrians. Just go: the code was eyes shut or open. Most of the morning was through fairly ‘industrial’ areas and then towns. After lunch opening up into more countryside. It seemed more populous than the south of Tirana though perhaps that’s just development along a road corridor.

Last full day in Albania. It’ll be interesting to return here in a few years: lovely varied country, including the people. Patisseries and coffee bars galore to explore!