OE Day 26 Coltesti to Alba Iulia

A short mainly downhill ride. One steep little unexpected bump to remind the heart what it’s there for.

We quickly descended from the cool green hills and lush crops to the hotter and dryer plain. Bigger roads being build taking heavy traffic. Progress? Good to see things like refuse collectors doing rounds: life is normal everywhere. Few coffee opportunities so we got to Alba Iulia fairly smartly.

In time to look around another Hapsburg investment opportunity, the Alba Carolina Citadel (once a Roman camp too). No expense spared here with 20000serfs building it 1715-1738. A good diversion.

Undulating tomorrow so recovery time it is…

OE Day 25 Albac to Contesti 96km

The ride takes us further into Transylvania. Rolling road criss crossing with an old disused narrow gauge railway and both with the River Aries.

There is a fair amount of old industry along the way, mainly forestry related and possibly a Soviet Legacy. Old women all in head scarves and pinnys walk the road. The men seem to be engaged in a conversation that prevents them from moving.

Another Welsh weather and hill side day. Then we turn to go up to the small commune of Coltesti where we have a rest day. Most places have two names Romanian and Hungarian, reflecting the population.

OE Day 24 Beius to Albac 80km

A very different ride. Very green (later downpour explained that), hilly (1000m in 10 miles or so is OK by me). Lovely cooler temperature.

The villages are interesting.  Many houses have relatively bland fronts yet hint at richer Court yards and inner sanctums. Dotted with older people with rich lived in faces and shrunken jaws, skin baked from a life in the sun.  They wave generously yet must wonder what’s that got to do with the price of tomatoes.

Wood piles evidence the heating. It’s very mich like Swiss Alps. Not as pristine and perhaps the better for it.

Of course this may all be fueled by the evil blackberry liquor which was flowing at dinner. You don’t notice it until you stand up and find yourself on your knees.

Tomorrow back into the refreshing rain. Just like home.

Passenger

OE Day 23 Gyula to Beius 104km

We were leaving the Schengen region so a proper passport control between Hungary and Romania. EU citizens show id. Us idiot [Brexit] folk need the full stamp treatment from both sides. Efficient though, UK Passport control could learn. (Sorry, realise wasted hope). The only issue was Michael traveling on an Emergency USA passport (original stolen in Paris). The issue was the lack of a stamp showing when he’d entered EU. Hungary has an issue with immigration (back onto familiar territory).

Everything a bit cooler and more green today. The main change across the border was villages. In Hungary there was large gaps between places and then they were quite big. More places in Romania and smaller. Lots of veg being grown. And building work, much incomplete. Even a new church in small place which had 3 others. Why?

The currency is the Leu. Yet to get a feel for costs. Beius looks like it’s having a makeover. It certainly got a good washing down just after we arrived. Nice day.

OE Day 22 Lakitelek to Gyula 120km

The maps of routes don’t show wind. Today was a good strong crosswind as in slightly not a head wind. Luckily there was no tree cover so we were able to enjoy it for the majority of the ride.

A little cooler, as in you use a lower temperature in fan ovens. The poor ground looked parched. You can imagine how dust bowls start.

We were mainly on cycle paths along the side of the roads. When on the roads and at junctions the drivers are incredibly polite and caring. We’re told that changes tomorrow in Romania.

The few places we pass through looked like working rural towns on a Sunday morning before church. Even when the shop didn’t sell coffee the assistant came out to point out where it can be found. Pointing and smiling is a good universal language.

Hungary is famous (I read) for it spa towns. A few we go through have that holiday place feeling. The lowering water table will be a problem.

The long climb up starts gently tomorrow.