Category: Trans Oceania

A rounding off. Written from the sun drenched slopes of [Old] South Wales, well I’m sure the drenched bit at least is right.

A happy couple of days around Queenstown where the cycle tour finished – emerging blinking from the TDA travelling bubble to take a few hesistant steps on our own, at a time of our chosing. Stressful.

As was negotiating baggage with Jetstar, owned by Quantas. Except there systems don’t talk. We don’t do extra bags sir (as our tickets bought through BA we were only able to add a second bag (for bike) at airport)…we add more kg. At 30 AUD / kg. Pick me off the floor. Wrestle to the ground via an online chat then a call (which was probably 30 AUD/min). Main thing is all got to Heathrow. Getting it into the baggage claim took longer than the 27 hr flight it seemed.

It’s always fun to work out how to get onto a different public transport system – and good when it works. This occupied the rainy day going to the airport to try and fix luggage. All peaceful in the q until Jetstar announce cancellation of 3 flights – a lull then mayhem. You’ve got an enquiry about a flight in two days time sir? I see, well just close the door behind you as you leave – we’re stressed here!

Queenstown is now a tourist hub. First settler came from Haverford West in Pembrokeshire in 1860. Lots of boats sailing in 1860. When gold was discovered the British Government bought his small holding for 10000UKP – or 1.5million in today’s terms. Poor chap. The cemetery tells the story then Frankton, just up the road, thought it was the place to be – so the first hospital / cemetery (not saying much about faith in happy outcomes ) were there.

Lots of tourist things to do in an absolutely stunning setting. I settled for a slow walk up to the Gondola station on Ben Lomond (really, they could have thought of something original) and a cable car down. Then a happy mootch around the peninsular. Frisby golf was the thing.

Then all too soon, but the right time, to the airport – and a happy check-in. As I’d let 3.5 hours as a contingency, I’d lots of time to explore the vastness of the airport. Once around took 5 mins. I do like small airports though.

TTFN. See you next year.

An old (well 1860ish if that is old) sheep pass, the Crown Range Summit at 1076m was the jewel of today’s cycle. The last of this trip, so a fitting finale.

Amazingly the road, which has a few steep bits, and many tight switchbacks on the descent, was only tarmaced in 2000. Before cars it was horse drawn carts. “Neigh lad, if you think I’m going up that you can hoof it”.

The other star of the day was the lupins. Maybe an introduced weed, they look quite the part against the hillsides and streams.

Gold of course is the backdrop to the few small towns we go through. Today the gold is it’s dry and the sun glinting off the summits as it rises. Which means we left very early.

Next couple of days to explore the environs of tourist Queenstown and head home. Great trip of Australia and New Zealand. Amazing flora and fauna, landscapes, places. My ignorance exceeded my expectations!

A bientot!

Guess what – we’re stopping over near a lake. This is a glacial valley formed during the last ice age, dammed by a terminal moraine. Though now adays it’s used as part of a hydro electric scheme.

Riding along it’s shores (up and down along the hillsides) was at the end of the day. Following the Haast River, up the Haast Pass – 600m ascent over 7.5 km- up to Lake Wanaka was the main show. I met an American later who proudly stated his achievement: we drove over Haast Pass. Looking at my happy wee bike I said “wow, that’s great. I cycled it”. He didn’t seem to notice any irony.

The real show was however the storm we were in, starting from 8pm last night. The streams that tumble down the hillside full of replenished energy from topping up; the mist hanging low in the valleys; the torrents of waterfalls.

I wore two waterproofs today – both shrugged their shoulders and said – suck it up, it’s only water.

The landscapes remind me of the Highlands – grander and more rugged though – the water is blue vs black. The weather changes just as quickly – now it’s blue skies and white clouds. Hopefully this means the storm has passed for tomorrow’s last day cycling of this trip, into Queenstown.

Haast is named after the nearby River Haast which was named by the “discoverer” Haasst after himself. Under instruction I read: it didn’t say whether he protested. The 92 residents probably don’t care.

Today we entered the UNESCO South West New Zealand World Heritage area. I did wonder if the whole world is a heritage area in its own right, just not recognised by a scrutiny committee — churlish of me. Anyway it is beautiful whether it’s rain or sun.

We got plenty of both of those today – no views of Fox Glacier nor Mount Cooke, just lovely mist clad green hill sides. Bruce Bay was a sound and vision treat as the waves crashed in.

Hills gives thinking time. The kiwi is endangered. As a flightless bird it is vulnerable to predators – all introduced species. First there was man, then followed stoats (brought in to control the introduced rats), then possums (brought in from Australia). There are efforts to make it predator free: a mammoth task (they are extinct though).

Tomorrow the penultimate day. The motivation briefing amounted to “the riders on previous trips found this the toughest day of all”: so 6:00am start it is (full waterproof gear to the ready!)