Category: Trans Europa

Leaving Vilnius was a reminder of how a good network of cycle paths adjacent to highways can keep you moving safely. Reinforced by the odd section which was on the highway. Although the majority of drivers were super courteous, the occasional close shave kept the blood flowing.

This also helped with a cooling effect which was needed as the temperatures started to climb – as did we. Previously relaxed muscles made their thoughts known about having to work.

A very pleasant amble through pastural lands and working villages. The butterflies were clearly enjoying the hot breeze as they danced around – or were they avoiding the bigger bugs which also came out to play?

The day ended on a fine old railway line. Tomorrow into Poland, avoiding going left or right: one way to the Russian enclave Kalinigrad, the other to Belarus. Better stick close to Barbara…..

Another great old city with lots of 13/14/WhateverC churches of varying dimensions and denominations. Mr MacAlpine of his day must have made a fortune. All the trained stonemasons, etc. Where did the congregation come from – the whole population then is estimated to be 500000.

Today it is 2.9 million. With a lot of church restoration continuing since 1990 liberation. Over the millennia they have changed denominationnans use – some were turned into Russian barracks. All these Baltic countries have established democratic structures, renewed economies, rebuilt – in about the same time we’ve taken not to build one railway.

We’ve been tethered to the old town – new Vilnius is the other side of the river. Still it feels locals use it. Quite quiet, Lidls is bustling. Still can’t find anything.

Tomorrow we find our way back out of the city, heading SW.

A longer and getting hillier cycle gets us to the Lithuanian capital. Which starts 20km from the centre.

A day of rolling hills, some busier roads and wee villages. A coffee shop was well worth hunting down, especially on a Sunday. Visits to graveyards, often well out of town (cheaper land or not so boggy?) seemed popular.

Some cattle, mainly arable land.

Vilnius seems a churchy place by the number we passed on the way in. Tonight’s hotel is a former convent next to a church – I hope Quasimodo lies in, else I’ll through him off the bell tower.

Tomorrow a “rest day”…..

Passing through some small villages, at last we see what has been rare so far on this trip. People. Even a congregation of them near a lavendar field – either there to harvest or have a wedding. My bet was the latter given the balloons.

A few solar panels – not many appear. Lithuania imports 70% of its electrivity, mainly from Sweden (Russia used to be its main supplier). Latvia on the other hand generates 70% of its power from renewable sources, mainly hydrolelectric – presumably from rivers given the lack of hills?

The place names could be Welsh, apart from the squiggles. Thankfully these electronic devices do the work – mainly. Always good to have a back up. Today’s excitement was a huge tree being cut down whilst we waited. Skilful job to miss a fence, and not block the road.

Lots of small churches – Roman Catholicism dominates 74%. Poor old Luther drew a blank here.

Tomorrow head to Vilnius and a “rest” day.