Innsbruck

We’re in with the inn crowd. Ignorance comes to fore again. Innsbruck is in the Inn Valley and means bridge over the [river] Inn. Which is extremely high from the snow melt: last couple of days they’ve been on flood alert as it topped 6m.

We’ve spent most of the day in the AlltStadt, restored since WW2 bombing. Very old, pretty and hot, with some concrete brutalism on the outskirts. You can see how cities act as heat sinks. And money shifters given the range of expensive shops.

Maximilian 1 did a good job, the story goes, including leading to the Hapsburg dynasty. He certainly spawned some fancy building. I had to look to see what we were up to in the early 1500s (James IV and Henry VI, with John Knox not even warming up his tonsils).

First grumpy/rude waiter if entire trip: didn’t we know it’s customary in Austria to pay for table tap water? And to wait for him to give the bill rather than leave the right money? Tip stayed in pocket. Hope his leather hosen shrinks in the wash.

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Austria is a strange mix of Germanic efficiency and Highland laid back. Mo apparent rush. Shame they are the ashtray of Europe and still allow smoking in bars/cafes: one of the coalition deals in 2018.

Our room has no air conditioning (so very eco friendly and something that uses too much energy) : clothes dry well after we work out how to use the launderette.

Lovely city, cycle friendly (not too many cf Copenhagen) and easy to navigate.

Odyssey Day 26 Brixen to Innsbruck

The Brennen Pass came out in its spring best. Hay being cropped (small mowers) and hand raked. Twins thundering through on the main Munich to Verona line: great to see so many good being moved by wagon.

Following old roads and railways, we see the new trunk road snaking around at an unbelievable height. We enter Austria at Brennen, population 600 and a shopping mall. So we didn’t stop.

Of course flowers everywhere, almost as many as cafes and ice-cream shops

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Odyssey D25 Cortina to Brixen/Bressanone 58miles 780m

And now just two languages to deal with. Italian and German. The latter makes an entry as we enter the Tyrol region, another disputed land. That looks like the common thread to our Odyssey.

The countryside doesn’t care, it just dominates. Most of today is a descent which brings home the impact of water as it thunders down carrying gravel.

More arable landscapes appear, with meadows and spring flowers joining mountain and town. Lots more cyclists, touring and bikes.

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A great cycle track keeps us away from most of the traffic.

Bressanone is one impressive town.

Odyssey day 24 Maniago to Cortina d’Ampezzo 75miles 2200m

James had hidden his Aston, Clusea was dealing with a bump, so were left to deal with the Cliff Hanger views ourselves.

Young mountains the Dolomites might be: achingly beautiful they definitely are. We have all day to appreciate them as we start at the bottom and end up a lot higher.

Today they and the numerous small villages perched precariously on hillsides, were framed by meadows of spring flowers.

The last 30k was on an old railway line. I have an inclination it took some building.

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Odyssey Day 23 Trieste to Maniago 75miles 750m

The trilingual signs has us wondering. So it turns out that there are two other languages spoken in this region. Wiki says it is called Friûl Vignesie Julie in Friulian and Furlanija Julijska krajina in Slovene, two languages spoken in the region. It encompasses the historical-geographical region of Friuli and a small portion of the historical region of Venezia Giulia – also known in English as the Julian March – each with its own distinct history, traditions and identity. Now we know!

Flat as Norfolk sharing a similar drained wetlands origin. Rich agricultural lands, with prosperous villages. The smell of freshly cut grass verges and numerous churches competing for tower of the year evidences that. Factories are not hidden away though, rather celebrated. Fittingly Maniago is a major world exporter of steel blades.

Tomorrow we ascend the Dolomites which have been the backdrop of most of today’s ride.

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