Lakes and Dales Day 3: Mungrisdale to Gosforth

A classic day. Blue skies with large white clouds, empty rolling roads, light breeze, spring flowers and hedgerows. The latter I examined at close quarters avoiding the only idiot can driver we’ve seen who was hurtling down hill and didn’t care. Made up for by the later artic driver who deliberately shielded us from traffic through road works. Shame we only tend to remember the idiots (and I thought I’d avoided bring Brexiteers into this).

The varying landscape kept our eyes busy and away from the oscillating hills we very cycling on. Our route follows around the outer rim of the National Park with volcanic rugged build on our left and flatter pastures on our right.

Cockermouth proved to be an interesting wee place: lived in and real, not quaint and conserved. It contrasts with the slightly run down feel of Penrith.

Lakes and Dales Day 2: Tebay to Mungrisdale

Great place names evidence the tussle between the Brythonic origins and later (Viking) conquests. Kirks have traveled South obviously, though I don’t know if they are stuffed full of the same calibre of people (interpret that as you will). Add a “by” and you have a village or settlement around a church. As in Kirkby Lonsdale, Kirkby Stephen etc. I spend the day thinking about where Kirby Grip fits in.

The morning is spent amongst the sandstone of the western side of the Yorkshire Dales. Undulating across moors and cattle grazed fields. Lovely to hear nothing but the sound of the countryside; happy birds, dopy sheep, and the sharp intake of a cyclist spotting the vertiginous slope ahead.

Village greens, complete with maypoles, start appearing. Then cross the M6 back into the Lakes. Penrith’s attractions remain hidden before we get into more rural pastures. Blen is the prefix now, meaning “hill or uplands”, from Cumbric/Welsh. No answer to my question as we pass through Blencow if there is a Blenbull.

Tonight is in Mungrisdale, which has a pub. And nothing else. It was apparently second choice for the set of the Lamb and Slaughter. Hope the mist keeps away.

Lakes and Dales Day 1: Cartmel to Tebay

Thankfully we rejigged our plans to do this 198mile loop over 4 days rather than 3. That gave us more time today to enjoy the views, sup tea and battle the headwinds. Spring flowers brighten the hedgerows, birds (particularly heron) soar into the winds.

The route takes a wonderful meander on quiet lanes. The downside is being hemmed in both sides so it is tactful to stop and allow tractors to pass. The upside is seeing the landscapes over the hedges. It’s also a reminder that many of the roads had previous uses, the clue being removed cat’s eyes and no traffic with larger roads nearby.

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Kirkby Lonsdale is a delight. Sedburgh was a mass of closed coffee and cake shops. Sizergh Castle to be returned to when house is open.

Tonight is at Tebay Services, actually very good. Surroundings not quite at quaint as last night’s pub in Cartmel nor as personable as Bill and Neil’s home where we stayed and will return to…. Hopefully with tailwinds.

Day 11 Dalby to Copenhagen: Copenhagen

17 miles of countryside then straight into outer then inner Copenhagen for the next 25 miles. Of the Danish population of 5.3million, nearly 1.7million live in the Copehagen area.

Like Holland and Germany, everywhere seems litter and graffiti free. Except for the great street art and deliberately chosen areas. Large buildings, especially industrial ones, are built to add to the landscape. An inner city incinerator, power station: both you have to look up to find out what they are.

The train bike storage capacity is great. Shame that doesn’t go for the manners of some of the cyclists. This may be a renound cycling friendy city: not all the cyclists are friend ly. The man who shouted near us (it couldn’t possibly have been at us) “get out the way, you’re going too slow”, clearly wasn’t around on the day the poll found this to be Europe’s friendliest city.

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Down to the Little Mermaid and tis done. Great trip, traveling with some lovely characters who knew a lot.

Here is our route

Day 10, Rodby to Dalby: Copehagen

Some immediate contrasts. Language: we should have listened more to Scandinoir cf the sub titles. I think tag, ya, will only get us so far. Prices: expensive. Few wind turbines. Hillier (that’s relative of course), rolling countryside. The electricity pounds are very dainty.

The cycle paths when they exist are good; drivers are not as caring of cyclists. And the return of the moped to cycle lanes. Mainly agricultural arable landscape, well manicured. More small towns, perhaps a bit more dilapidated than Northern Germany.

How do people know we are British even when we haven’t said anything? And why are we so rubbish at languages?

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The 2 mile bridge crossing was fun though best not to indirect too closely the rusted bits. Then upwards to the highest point of this trip…. Which is about the same altitude as our house. So downhill tomorrow….

Here is our route