Category: Cycling

Most of the non UK people on the trip didn’t know who Nelson was, so no point in introducing them to “Kiss me Hardy”. A lot of the streets of Nelson were named after UK nautical folks when building it in 1840. Maybe the 1805 Battle of Trafalgar was still a recent memory?

A hilly, hot and headwind day as we headed West – the temperature today was 10C higher than the usual average. Stunning scenery with azure blue sea and rivers; deep green forested hillsides; sparse farms.

Coffee in Havelock which Barbara and I had stopped in 5 years ago – I recognised the Green Mussels. No one paid much attention to mine.

Tomorrow we go to Murchison, named after the Scottish geologist. I wonder if the 480 residents know that? I might ask them individually when we arrive……

A combined ferry from Wellington and a restday in Picton. The 3hr crossing was smooth, despite the wind, and noisy. The noise was parties of school kids exercising their lungs and jostling hormones. Made me think corporal punishment wasn’t such a bad thing. Actually they were all ok!

The person opposite me was reading “Normal People” which I thoroughly enjoyed as a TV programme and wondered if the book was as good. She’s doing it the other way around. And on her way back home to Quebec as a lawyer doing an internship.

An interesting contrast opened up – as a young person she is in favour of Quebec independence from Canada. Two “older’ Quebecans (???) have joined the trip and don’t see the need/purpose. Sharing my thoughts about Scotland and UK. We’re better off together. I’d also better get onto another subject, else Brexit will surface. Oh, it has!

A sunny and toasty 29C as we navigate through the fjords approaching Picton. Which is a delightful wee passing through place, in the Malborough region – as in wine not cigarettes.

Our geologist ex-rider informs us, the Wairua Fault, on of the world’s big strike-slip (aka horizontal offset, but you knew that, goes down a valley 10 miles south of here. I hope they’ve followed the good earthquake construction guidance – first question to ask when you get in.

There’s a military theme – today in Picton named after Sir Thomas Picton who has a bit of a reputation (Tyrant of Trinidad/Blood Stained Governor) and [by conrast} a brave soldier, the highest ranking to be killed at Waterloo. I like his statue (controversial it appears) in Carmarthen. Tomorrow we cycle to Nelson. I wonder who that was named after?

And it promises to be hot with a good headwind. Toasty….

Feels a nice friendly place: lots of eateries, craft things, business centre. Well spaced out and easy to navigate. The “usual” dockside regeneration / repurposing of buildings, done well. Relatively quiet – it somehow doesn’t feel like a capital, though I can’t pin it down.

Wellington is prone to earthquakes because it rests on the point where two tectonic plates meet. Kilometres beneath Wellington the light, thick Australian plate rides over the heavier, but thinner Pacific plate. These plate movements have resulted in three major fault-lines running either through or very close to Wellington City – the Ohariu Fault, the Wairarapa Fault, and the Wellington Fault. When one of these faults shifts suddenly that earthquakes occur. The number of earthquakes which occur in Wellington has led to our city becoming one of the world’s leading centres for the study and research of earthquake activity and for the development of seismic strengthening techniques in buildings.

The first major new building engineered to approaching modern day earthquake standards was the railway station, dating to 1934 onwardsThere are other fine buildings of similar art noveau design and vintage around – particularly the St John’s Ambulance Depot (now a nice restaurant). No surprise there was a severe earthquake in 1934.

The new parliament building is of fine stone – adjacent to it is the Beehive, which houses the Goverment offices. No time for a tour – the carpet (tapestry) hung on the entrance hall is quite something.

As is Te Pape New Zealand museum which does a fine job of explaining NZ origins and development. What again struck home was the deforestation starting with the Maori’s and escalating with the Europeans. Starker still was a map showing the Maori land’s before 1860 and after – none, zero, zilch, in the South Island from that point forward. It also evidenced NZ own colonialisation of the islands, such as Cooke Island. I suppose it was in their blood.

So onwards to the South Island and new places / landscapes.

From a town of 2000 to a Capital of 200000, the world’s windiest city (on average). The connection is a railway and river.

The Remutaka Rail Trail was created on the incline section of the old Wellington – Palmerston North railway built in 1871, closing in 1955 when a tunnel was built. It’s fame comes from the Fell rail system – a horizontal wheel system on a raised line, allowing tradition coaches to be used. One of only three in the world, (only remaining one is on Isle of Man) this is a 1:15 incline: traditional lines run out of puff as I did!

I ran out of steam and traction early on – it’s called a push bike for a reason. Gives plenty of time to take in the great scenery and admire the builders and railwaymen who operated the line. The poor fireman must have earned their crust – no dilithium crystal warp drives – just shovel the coal and get on with it.

The descent is more gradual and we then follow the Huka River trail (more gravel to help sooth the sitbones) almost all the way into Wellington.

Geology lesson, thanks to Bob who used to live here. “For most of today we were at fault! e.g. The Wellington Fault, a major strike-slip fault, akin to the San Andreas. Large (magnitude 8) earthquakes occur on this fault about every 500-1,000 years.

 Earthquakes played a big role in Wellington’s early history.  The city was founded in 1840.  In 1848, a big earthquake in Marlborough (northern South Island) shook Wellington, destroying many brick buildings.  (The British built houses like they did in UK, with bricks …)  These were wisely rebuilt with wood, so the small city came through the 1855 Wairarapa Earthquake much better. [We passed through Featherston] along the Wairarapa Fault for ~10 km . This was the fault that ruptured in 1855.

 After one of these earthquakes, many settlers decided that they had seen enough and decided to move back to UK. They didn’t get far, however.  Their ship ran aground in the channel, whose sea floor had risen by several metres.  This channel has been filled in now; it’s where the airport is, between Evans Bay and Lyell Bay.”

 Now you know!

Tomorrow a rest day. Just capital…..

Entering wine country. Martinborough has a quite unique street pattern in the centre – inspired by the Union Jack. It’s surrounded by 20+ vineyards, some for tasty wine (I’m reliably informed – it’s white so what do I know even if I could drink it).

A very rural day. Leaving Palmy (as that’s easier to write) the unforecasted rain started and kept up in increasing intensity for the next 48k. Which happily coincided with a cafe stop. One main hill today – as it was raining I couldn’t see it, just felt it!

Then a lovely bit through farm lands surrounded by hills reminscent of the Scottish Borders. Happily there was a scarecrow competition (or what is left of them).

Sign of the day – which I only thought about afterwards was a large board outside a primary school. “HIGH ACHIEVEMENT NEEDS SACRIFICE”. Bit of tough love there. “Sorry Johnny, you are the weakest link – BANG – now the rest of you, pay attention”. Who needs corporal punishment with this approach – maybe it’s only one sacrifice a term to keep the kids alert.

Tomorrow a railtrail to Wellington and the last ride on the lovely North Island.