D12 TransOceania Launceston – Scottsdale

Expectations are sometimes exceeded. Spring in Tasmania is fresh (cold) and delightful. Varying landscapes, happy cattle.

We’ve ended up in Scottsdale, a small town in the North East of Tasmania, on the way to the coast. The theme will become obvious: named after John Scott the land surveyor who first (colonially) mapped it, 1855. It is also in the county of Dorset.

It didn’t take long to leave Launceston – after only 4k we’re in open country. The landscape opens up to lush green farms framed by the distant hills. Then a lovely ascent through an old established forest – this averts attention from the gradients. The descent was a joy and again we’re into small hold territory with local produce offered at the side of the road.

Scottsdale must be the regional town the scattered dwellings look to. It’s two streets have quite a few cafes, an indoor cricket pitch and swimming pool- all for its 2000 inhabitants. Even better, a Woolworths and a Salvation Army outlet. I hadn’t expected cherry blossom and flowering rhodedendron. Nor had I anticipated passing a local on the street who was walking his llama – it’s either a trend which has passed me by, a sign there’s not a lot to do around here or, inbreeding. Of the llama’s of course.

The undulations continue tomorrow. Temperature to increase from 6C this morning to 10C: things are hotting up.

TransOceania Launceston rest day

Named after the town in Corwall. Originally after Peterson, the military person who “founded it” he changed it to the home town of his superior. How’s that for sucking up to your boss?

Now the bit we see and walk through is a mix of art noveau buildings, Victorian and dock regeneration – the latter much like you see anywhere. With the exception of the 1960s grain silos which have recently been transformed from 20 year dilapidation to a chique hotel.

Good eateries abound. A gastronomic centre it says.

Grainy hotel

The Cataract Gorge is one of the main attractions, making for a pleasant stroll – much like they’ve done since the late 1800s. The fountain in the square marks the first water supply from 1857, still used today. Launceston was one of the first cities to have mains sewage, 1860. Speaks of the wealth or investment which must have been around.

As it is at the bottom of a valley, which we rode down, the only way is up tomorrow.

D11 TransOceania Devonport – Launceston

A bridge over the Mersey with Formby on one side and Torquay on the other. We past Rutherglen Rd, Bracknell etc. If you’d first settled here what would you name your town/street?.

Tasmania, named after Abel Tasman. About 26000 sq miles, population 600k: cf Wales, about 8000 sq miles, population 3.2 million.

“In 1642 Abel Janszoon Tasman named his ‘first sighted land’ after his Dutch superior Anthony Van Diemen. While Tasman missed meeting any Aborigines, they knew their land as ‘Trowunna’, ‘Trowenna’ or ‘Loetrouwitter’. Despite the official name of Van Diemen’s Land, usage of the alternative ‘Tasmania’ gradually grew” until officially adopted in 1855. Abel didn’t live long enough to enjoy his fame.

Immediately differences from the main land are apparent. No water turbines, rather water holes. More tended gardens with flowers. Kookaburra’s laughing in the trees, echidna’s spiky coats. Well maintained roads thus far. Not so many signs about danger of fire. It feels the equivalent of the Isle of Wight to mainland UK, about a generation slower (that’s not a bad thing). Weather extremes – mainly flooding sweeping away bridges. Hillier.

In common are the variants of customised post boxes. Bungalows and broad streets.

We spent the bulk of today wandering through Meander Valley. A lot going on here: according to the numerous signs the proposal to build a high security jail is not popular; nor the an application for a bauxite mine.

Launceston is a rest day tomorrow so a day of exploring it’s wide streets.

TransOceania Tasmania Ferry day

….or as our guide appears to say, it’s a “fairy day”. Before we got our ears attuned I kept thinking what are fairy days are. So I can now say I’m away with the ferries.

Expectations of a Caledonian MacBayne were quickly dashed by a couple of things. How long a crossing : 11 hours or so. The boat size: it takes 400 cars, 1400 passengers. My only request is a smooth crossing across the Bass Straight. So far….

Tasmania is an Australian state, 1of 6, population approaching 600k, from 1901. We get to Devonport (27000) then cycle to Launceston (150000) tomorrow. As Tasmania is vast we can thus expect lots of nothingness in between overnight stops.

Its weather is renouned as wet and hilly, twinned with Wales so all will be good. We spend 12 Cycling days here.

A reminder of cash. The till is cashless and as we now out of signal range the shop is shut. So far on the entire trip we’ve not used coins or notes at all, apart from getting a few coins in case a laundry machine needed them. As the sink has sufficed, we’ve still got the coins.

D10 TransOceania Apollo Bay – North Geelong

The Great Ocean Road was built by returning Anzac troops, 3000 of them, after WW1. Starting in 1919, 236 mile’s of road cut through rock by pick and shovel, it was completed in 1932. And we can’t build a railway line with automated equipment.

The prices of houses are eye watering. Especially in Surf Coast County and the start of holiday locations.

Lovely cycling with benign traffic. It was a shock to get to Geelong, a city of 300000 and busy urban roads. Though with cycle lanes.

Only grizzle: apart from one place the only low/zero beer so far is Heineken or Peroni. Tap water it is…..

Early rise for the ferry to Tasmania tomorrow. 13hr crossing. If it misses the landing we end up in Antarctica. Win-win.