Category: Spain

I’ve been conned by “must do’ things before. Going to see “Six” is a couple of hours I’ll not get back. “Hamilton” has a crazy waiting list months in advance – I did learn about Hamilton, but they could have sent me a Wikipedia link to save the journey.

So as I approached the external bling of Sagrad Familia, looking like a creation in a Disney movie, I thought, hmmm. How will this work out?

Started in 1882, it’s scheduled to be finished next year. On the anniversary of Gaudi’s death, the main architect for the first 40 years. He was hit by a tram. Which sharpened our attention crossing the tram lines going back to the hotel. And made me think of the Steeleye Span hit – though that was Gaudete. Close

Built by private subscription – as a response to the growing secularism of the increasing population, and to put those left wingers in their place by a focus on the righteous beliefs of the funders. I simplify.

Today it attracts visitors as well as worshippers. It’s like a TARDIS. I’m not sure what to make of it. The use of light and space is fantastic. A bit, well a lot, OTT. I also like these spaces to be quiet: the noise of the milling throng is a constant backdrop. The museum exhibition detailing how it is built puts a lot in perspective – including the use of plaster models, even today though with 3D Printing, to study various designs. Stunning workmanship – continuing today.

It is all a very bold statement. Mine is: I think I prefer the design and simplicity of the Wigwam – Liverpool’s Catholic Cathedral. It’s free too…

A walk to the old part, tourist part. Barcelona is promoting itself as a city of pickpockets to discourage visitors it seems. Lots of urban police. So we walk with everything hidden in clenches.

It can trace its origins to 2-3BC. What place can’t I wonder? When does a few tents, then buildings, then workship and execution places (different?) become a hamlet, village, town, city? Maybe UNESCO wrestle with this question all the time?

The wrestling we did was with a hot chocolate. None of your powdery stuff. This was a cup of thick melted dark chocolate that clung to your ribs as you flowed it down. Lovely, no seconds were needed. Just a rest.

The Cathedral looked like a cathedral. We’re saving the really OTT one for tomorrow. Las Ramblas was a wee bit shambolic, more las dodge workings – and lots of normal shops. Far more impressive were the narrow side streets with traders and places where the locals seemed to go.

Very walkable place.

Random thoughts – for days the most common roadside plant has been fennel. Parakeets make a lot of noise and blend in well.

Barcelona has a population of 1.7 million (city), 6 million (metro area). AKA more than Wales. It’s influence spreads far. As soon as we leave the Tossa behind we start to get into bigger roads, traffics and industry.

Most of it is light industry in well spaced units. The heavy industry isn’t until we reach 10km from Barcelona where we’re greeted with a concrete factory. With people living cheek by jowl beside it.

A lot of the day is on the hard shoulder of a larger road. The drivers were excellent, and gave us plenty of space. It seemed the tossas waited to emerge nearer to Barcelona to practice what one can assume was Spanish verbal abuse. Amateurs I thought – you’ll have to try harder if you call that abuse.

We casually pass through some older places with their 10/11/12 C castles. Not grand enough for UNESCO it seemed – or maybe they had been adapted so normal people lived there. Can’t have everyone doing that can we?

And then to a great cycle path 12 km from Barcelona, Eurovelo 8. Such an easy way to enter a city. Great new art being put in place. Only 2 main turns to make, what can go wrong? Always fun to retrace your steps: gives a different perspective.

2 rest days in Barcelona. The poster “Tourist go home, refugees welcome” is making a point. Luckily we’re cyclists so it doesn’t apply to us.

Spain has a population of about 49 million – with a far larger land mass than the UK. The UK has a population density of about 279 people per square kilometer. Spain 96.

Tossa de Mar was put on the map in Neolithic times. It took off in the early 1950s when Ava Gardner – dating Frank Sinatra – made a film here with James Mason (Pandora and the Flying Dutchman). So making it a popular tourist destination and creating Costa Brava. There’s no information about the tradition of tossing the mayor.

We got a sense of the population distribution from today’s ride. A most pleasurable jaunt up to see if the Monks were at 2nd prayer and the down onto a great agricultural plain. Gone are vines. Replaced by apples, some cattle and arable farms.

The towns are “working”. We pass through La Bisbal, which is known for, and it shows, ceramics. Calonges has a large piece of art bought in a bring and buy sale of things from a 2004 Barcelona exhibition.

Tomorrow to Barcelona and a double rest day.