Spain – Travelling reflections

D57 Trans Europa Ronda – Gibraltar

There’s always something bittersweet about the last day of a good trip. Looking forward to and sad about the approaching end point. As I said to those who kept saying “It’s the final day”: “It’s the first day of the rest of my life so we’re going to make the most of it, and enjoy it”. Carpe Diem.

So we grasp the final 1000m over the first 30k with all four wheels. Shortly after meeting Barbara’s friend from Neath at a view point (they were on holiday), a great descent to the plains below.

At least they are honest here. One road sign said, to effect, we were entering the municipality of Cadiz. Below it read (more politely put): “the roads are now shit”. Which they were. Just like home, an inexplicable difference crossing county borders. Sadly we can no longer blame it on EU funding.

After enjoying being inland for a while in always interesting landscapes and places, it was also nice to be back by the sea. Industry reappears, offering a change to the views.

Neil Diamond loved the view of Gibraltar so much he wrote a song about it. No surprise. It is an impresssive lump of rock. You know of course you enter it (if on foot or bike as cars now have a tunnel) by crossing the runway. Then mayhem: busy and narrow roads; cars careering around, ignoring the cyclists wobbling up it’s slopes.

Arrived, bikes boxed, relax. And start the cheerios. No M&Ms left – wait, somebody has left a present outside the door! Diolch!

The final 8

Spain, Trans Europa

D55 Trans Europa Granada – Antequerra

Granada’s tram system soon appeared once we left the cocoon of the centre, along with where “normal” people stay. A good network of paths soon took us into the countryside.

Olive trees, quiet roads, happy villages en-route to Antequerra. It has population of 47000, with the highest ratio of churches to people in Spain, circa 23 of them. Plus numerous convents. Must be the climate.

You know the story: Romans to Moors to Christiana etc. Plus UNESCO, including for the limestone hills surrounding it. Which means closing the quarries which build and repair the place. I think the Peak District in the UK have struck the right balance: a living, working, landscape.

Lovely to meet up with John and Adrienne who came to AAntequerra from Pontardawe 8 years ago.

Steep day tomorrow so off to sleep. May add more or comments to photos, do return!

Spain, Trans Europa

Trans Europa Granada

Population of 250000, in the foothills of Sierra Nevada, there has been a settlement here (I read) since 5000BC. 47000 students in the University. Whilst clearly a tourist destination (The Alhambra is Spain’s largest attraction), it maintains a bustling, friendly/local feel.

There are tacky shops selling cheap tack; expensive shops selling expensive tack. To whom isn’t clear, most are empty. The restaurants are all doing a good trade – nice temperature to eat outside.

Cathedral – tick. UNESCO World Heritage – tick. Pomegranates – tick. It’s the city emblem.

What brings people here is the sprawling Alhambra Palace. Started by the Moors with their Muslim traditions, gardens and water features galore. Napoleon even gets a mention as he left a number of cannons behind. Somebody probably got fired.

In one of these “small world” moments we bumped into Kathleen from Pontardawe.

A restful rest day, to Antequerra tomorrow with Barbara on her saddle.

Spain, Trans Europa

D54 Baza – Granada

A day of ups and downs. One of the ups is Barbara’s swollen hand is unswelling, but not enough to ride. So I was left to roll across the dusty plains with instructions to photograph.

A large part of today was uphill – making stopping for photos not easy if you want to get going. The other part was sweeping downhill. Which makes for a grimace to lose momentum when braking to take photos. I made the sacrifices.

More suphur mine communities. One monument read

DUE TO LIFE’S CIRCUMSTANCES, WE HAD TO EMIGRATE, WITH THE ILLUSION AND HOPE OF ONE DAY RETURNING. INAUGURATED ON 08/22/2009 BY VIRTUDES HERNÁNDEZ REQUENA (HERNÁN-VALLE)

The community of Gor we stopped in (Bar Mor) for coffee had a population of 6600 in 1950. 755 in 2021. Agriculture is now the main industry, noting the service industry has increased with the opening of a nursing home. Are folks shipped in to be out of the way given the remoteness? Anyway the ones being helped around looked well looked after.

The descent took us passed an amazing azure coloured water lake. The rocks seemed to have changed. Not having the cycling geologist with me to tell me to what, I’ll have to be satisfied with they looked harder.

Granada is a rest day tomorrow. Seems a fine place.

Spain, Trans Europa

D53 Trans Europa Velez-Blanco – Baza

It turns out Baza, which on the face of it is a nice scruffy working town, has an important religious past. This passed me by – on a short day which was mainly downhill – my energy levels sank later in the day. It does have two very well equipped bike shops – maybe the clergy have seen the light and got into new habits.

Barbara investigated the Medical Centre in Velez Blanco for her wasp sting, so avoiding the easiest day cycling yet.

We passed many houses that were built into the hillside caves. Old and new. Perhaps cool. I’d worry about the soft rock and how water tight it is. Given how old many are, I must be wrong. It’s not made clear what the sewage system is: maybe I’m over thinking things.

We’re on the edges of the Sierra Navada. Some large gorgeous across dust filled planes. We’re into the Granada Geopark too – must be another UN designation. Dark skies will be next.