Trans Europa – Venice 2

Let’s get the suprise out of the way. It is a UNESCO site. Is it just me, or are the vast majority of these sites associated with vast amounts of wealth, power, high religion. Welcome to the UNESCO site of Castlemilk doesn’t have the same ring to it perhaps – or maybe lack of good dining for the inspection team.

It is quite spectacular, with a fast ferry bus from Lido (twinned with Ludo), where the plebious vulgaris live. Well I thought so unti I saw the real estate costs. We spent the morning and early evening mootching around the allay ways off St Mark’s Square. Elon Musk got the name Doge from here.

Coffee in the oldest continously open coffee house in the world – documented that is, as Oxford claims to have an older one, just no proof. Their waiters didn’t live as long it seems. Live music outside, where we spotted Karl Jenkings sitting coffeeing. He has, it seems, artistic links with Venice. Or maybe he’s a spy UNESCO inspector?

The controversy over the different stripes of the gondoliers was googled to the ground. Red and Blue are both permissable (if horizontal and 625lines), but not together. Both of equal status.

Google hasn’t quite solved the challenge of the difference between a cover charge on a bill and a tip. Ergo they are the same.

Tomorrow a short day along the Lido runway to a couple of ferry hops to the next coffee and gelato destination.

Ciao, Ciao Venizia!

Trans Europa: Venice-1

Just a few photos as we tootled along. It’s mind boggling to think they build this by piling in millions of wooden stakes until they reached clay. They don’t rot because there’s no oxygen. Then think: exactly how and who did the piling? From what? And why? I know the answer you read is “ good defensive position”. Like castles, why don’t the opposing side then just go around and thumb their noses at the ones inside?

It was a fun tour: a great perspective and a sense of scale of this place. UNESCO I wonder? I bet there is a waiting list to be a UNESCO inspector: tough job, someone has to do it.

D29 Trans Europa San Stino Di Livenza – Lido de Venezia

A day of dodging the cyclists out enjoying their Sunday outings. For an early morning start, the traffic was busy-ish. Maybe they were heading to Mass. There was even a woman outside a cafe.

The feeling of urbanisation started quite far out from Venice. Wealthy suburbs but not too flashy nor secluded.

Soon we were at the Water Taxi meeting point – for a tour of Venice before the quieter streets of Lido.

D28 Trans Europa Gorizia – San Stino Di Livenza

We saw more people in the restaurant tonight than we saw all day. Well apart from the men sitting outside some cafés drinking, smoking and chewing the cud.

As we passed through a village with dilidated exteriors and dry wooden doors, I wondered about the judgements we make to assume what the interiors are like. From scruffy to palaces. Then I noticed a swarthy thick set chap in his vest, on the third floor, leaning out, smoking his fag. I waved. He waved back. Reminded me of a sketch by my favourite philosopher: “hands across the sea”. Warning, you may need an interpreter….https://youtu.be/uKxPH_QH940?si=v9r4v_UigXDE2p5I

Lots of vineyards with large black grapes. This area is primarily known for white wines so, wine buff that I am, I am assuming it must be for something else. Indeed. Red wines are also produced, primarily under the Collio Rosso designation, a blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Cabernet Sauvignon.

Highlight of the day was Parma Nova, where Barbara did a few circuits of the inner racetrack. Of all the UNESCO sites we’ve been to, I can see why this unique fort has the designation. It first applied in 1593 after completing the 9 sides of its walls.

Light industrial parks contrast with floral scented lanes. And then we arrive at mosquito city for the night. Luckily the food took an age to arrive, so they ate well. I was the sacrificial anode. They had also digested all the wifi, so this post is late. You’ve coped.

D27 Trans Europa Ljubljana – Gorizia

What a complez mess we make of the world. Gorizia is an area fought over, particularly during WW1 when the Italians were fighting against the Central Powers (Austro-Hungarians, Germany, Ottomans and Bulgaria), where it was bitter front line fighting. It switched back and fore, contested by Yugoslavia and finally ended up in Italy in 1947. The Yugoslavs created Nova Goricia instead. Today it is run as one Municipality across the border – as things should be.

It is also European City of Culture 2025. Not that you’d know it on a hot July day – like an empty Clint Eastwood cowboy film with the tumbleweed blowing down the deserted streets. Good news is a couple of gellato places were happy to help our sugar content.

The route here went over a wee mountain pass after a glorious cycle path out of Ljubljana for 10km or so. A sweeping descent to bring the smile to the brakes who were enjoying their day in the sun.

Stereotype warning if such things offend you. Slovenia was almost litter free all the way. Cross into Italy and there it is. Perhaps the Slovenians bring it here on their shopping trips.

The other judgement was a coffee stop in a town with a New Town – Ljubljana feel to it (Vrhnika) with new housing developments. Silly me, it’s of Roman origins on a strategic crossroads between the Amber Route and another one going East-West.

Tomorrow we pass South through a town we last went the West-East on the Orient Express trip. I’ll be looking for the welcoming bunting…..