An old Penisular Days -1, 0 Copenhagen

You get to Harwich via the politically incorrect town of Manningtree. Harwich has more going for it than I can remember when we set off on the original leg of the North Sea Cycle route in 2002(ish). This time we’re heading across to the Hook of Holland to catch some more of the route via Copenhagen. Navigation aids abound, framed by dominant Felixstowe at the junction of the Stour, Deben and Orwell.

Some fine medieval streets mixed up with some newer bitsnpieces, blending in with Dovercourt. Where do place names come from? Perhaps those were the thoughts of the Pilgrim Fathers as the set sail on the Mayflower; Samuel Pepys’ pen may have hovered with such reflections.

Convincing ourselves the English flags are waving for the world cup, vs in support of the prominent UKIP offices, there is an active community here. Most visibly, the Harwich Society has done fantastic week on the Napoleonic defences. Even the Beacon Hill fort left over from WW11 is having a makeover: volunteers just ignore the daunting scale of the task and make a difference.

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The best thing that can be said about Harwich International is pass through.

Flower power, Days 26-27

Emerging into the searing heat, humidity and business of Little India in Singapore is rather a shock after quiet New Zealand. Even although it’s a Sunday evening the streets are teaming with chattering locals.  The supermarkets have stacks of veg and fruit that are just mind boggling.

So the next day we head to the sanctuary of the Botanic Gardens. An oasis of greenery.  They are rightfully proud of their orchids.  Then it’s back to Little India whose streets are equally multicoloured in day light.

A fine wee stop over. Just the job.

 

Blake’s Seven, Day 25

The Avon meanders through Christchurch. As did we. How do you plan to rebuild a city the size of Cardiff/Edinburgh after the 22 February 2011 earthquake? Apparently they are sticking to the plan that was hatched in the 100 days following. I hope they find space to make the temporary 185 empty chairs outside the temporary Cathedral permanent.

Edinburgh can learn from here. Their trams still run. Street Art helps bring a sense of renewal to what might otherwise seem like a haphazard large building sight. Innovative use of containers helps street markets trade. The trees of the Botanic Gardens are remarkably unaffected.

It’s strange to be back in a city after three weeks in rural areas. You notice the noise of the roads juxtaposed with the atmosphere of street music, punctuated by park joggers earning their later calorie intake. The Museum does a good job at bringing strands together. Sobering to think that 10% of the New Zealand population fought in WW1.

Cars: predominantly Japanese (Toyota), with the odd Ford thrown in. Bins: red for waste, yellow for recycling. If a wheely bin, use these colours on the lids of the black base. Plugs: very odd. Railway lines: 3ft6″, vs our 4ft8″. Mainly for freight. Wifi: iffy. Fish and chips: excellent. People: lovely – helpful, interested and genuine.

Christchurch meander, Day 24

Strong winds whips in the rain, first we’ve seen for many a day. A short hop of 240km punctuated by coffee shops.

Some random thoughts. What’s been surprising? Rosehips along lower paths, and other invasive species as diverse as possums and lupins. Fungi proliferate across changing landscapes and vegetation. Why English Breakfast tea? I’m sure NZ breakfast is just as good. Coffee and cafe culture with Cabinet food. Long black coffee is a good kick start to the day, from sleep to eyes on stalks within 5 minutes.

 

Jucy Lucy has caught on in a jovial way. She weaves her way in km and litres though sticks to tradition, travelling on the left on the single carriage way roads. Multiple Cycle shops in every place. More than wind farms or solar panels which are few and far between. Clean toilets even in the remotest location, most with very welcome long drops.