Grant and Barbara

Lakes and Dales Day 2: Tebay to Mungrisdale

Great place names evidence the tussle between the Brythonic origins and later (Viking) conquests. Kirks have traveled South obviously, though I don’t know if they are stuffed full of the same calibre of people (interpret that as you will). Add a “by” and you have a village or settlement around a church. As in Kirkby Lonsdale, Kirkby Stephen etc. I spend the day thinking about where Kirby Grip fits in.

The morning is spent amongst the sandstone of the western side of the Yorkshire Dales. Undulating across moors and cattle grazed fields. Lovely to hear nothing but the sound of the countryside; happy birds, dopy sheep, and the sharp intake of a cyclist spotting the vertiginous slope ahead.

Village greens, complete with maypoles, start appearing. Then cross the M6 back into the Lakes. Penrith’s attractions remain hidden before we get into more rural pastures. Blen is the prefix now, meaning “hill or uplands”, from Cumbric/Welsh. No answer to my question as we pass through Blencow if there is a Blenbull.

Tonight is in Mungrisdale, which has a pub. And nothing else. It was apparently second choice for the set of the Lamb and Slaughter. Hope the mist keeps away.

Cycling, UK

Lakes and Dales Day 1: Cartmel to Tebay

Thankfully we rejigged our plans to do this 198mile loop over 4 days rather than 3. That gave us more time today to enjoy the views, sup tea and battle the headwinds. Spring flowers brighten the hedgerows, birds (particularly heron) soar into the winds.

The route takes a wonderful meander on quiet lanes. The downside is being hemmed in both sides so it is tactful to stop and allow tractors to pass. The upside is seeing the landscapes over the hedges. It’s also a reminder that many of the roads had previous uses, the clue being removed cat’s eyes and no traffic with larger roads nearby.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Kirkby Lonsdale is a delight. Sedburgh was a mass of closed coffee and cake shops. Sizergh Castle to be returned to when house is open.

Tonight is at Tebay Services, actually very good. Surroundings not quite at quaint as last night’s pub in Cartmel nor as personable as Bill and Neil’s home where we stayed and will return to…. Hopefully with tailwinds.

Scotland, Walking

Day 0, Stirling, Cape Wrath Trail

Stirling is a underrated wee city. Medieval castle with all the old town trimmings, Stirling Bridge and Wallace: the meeting point of Lowland and Highland. Yet it has its own rough underbelly cheek by jowl with cobbled streets.

The castle dominates the landscape. It’s been looked after well and feels accessible, not preserved. Old skills have been relearned to redo old halls and chapel. Big enough to show coach parties (who need to be diverted to the rest of the city), small enough to appreciate its scale.

We followed the Forth trail to find where Jimmy (my Dad) was born, Abbey Road Place. On the way the information boards broadened horizons. I hadn’t realised Stirling had once been a major port.

The Albert Halls rounded off the day with Blazin Fiddles and Karen Matheson in a grand Victorian pile.

Sark

So how do you spend a week on an island some 3 miles long and 1.5 miles wide, with as population of 400 or so? Is this a mindfulness paradise? Well, there is a clue in the 22 miles of coast, no cars, and splendid isolation.

We were in the good company of Andy and Madeline who had invited us to share their lighthouse idyll accomodation. Based onshore, the 150 or so steps to access the still working lighthouse (misty nights activating the fog horn were testament to that), offer a morning heart wake up call to reach the flat plateau above. This journey repeats itself as we explore the coastal inlets: getting to the shore involves a wind down and up.

Most of the land is now left uncultivated: food is brought in. This island has all the amenities: an incinerator which allows you to sample the emissions; a generator (no solar panels in evidence); a couple of shops and pubs (filled with locals who seem to be practiced drinkers); and hotels. 3 of these are mothballed. Half the locals and the Barclay brothers don’t get on. It is difficult to fathom who is right. Did one store close because the recluses upped the rent to force them out? Our was it because locals boycotted it? One local rag is vitriolic about lack of democracy by the ruling (elected) elite. Yet an editorial in the Guernsey paper decries the lack of Sarkees coming forward to stand for the council.

Whatever, most of that passed us by as we explored and adjusted to the pace of life. The Signeurie Gardens were great: a real buzz of insects enjoying the plethora of flowers. The whole island sagged under the weight of the sloe crop. Seaweed of mutivarious colours set off the mainly granite rock strata. Rusting iron edifices hinted at previous defences or trades.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

All too soon it is the time to leave our bags for Jimmy’s carter service and heave over the 7 mile crossing back to big brother Guernsey. Great.

Cycling, Denmark

Day 11 Dalby to Copenhagen: Copenhagen

17 miles of countryside then straight into outer then inner Copenhagen for the next 25 miles. Of the Danish population of 5.3million, nearly 1.7million live in the Copehagen area.

Like Holland and Germany, everywhere seems litter and graffiti free. Except for the great street art and deliberately chosen areas. Large buildings, especially industrial ones, are built to add to the landscape. An inner city incinerator, power station: both you have to look up to find out what they are.

The train bike storage capacity is great. Shame that doesn’t go for the manners of some of the cyclists. This may be a renound cycling friendy city: not all the cyclists are friend ly. The man who shouted near us (it couldn’t possibly have been at us) “get out the way, you’re going too slow”, clearly wasn’t around on the day the poll found this to be Europe’s friendliest city.

This slideshow requires JavaScript.

Down to the Little Mermaid and tis done. Great trip, traveling with some lovely characters who knew a lot.

Here is our route