July 2025 – Page 2 – Travelling reflections

D11 Trans Europa Lomza – Pultusk

Pultusk is one of the oldest towns in Poland. I read this on one side of a noticeboard in English whilst Barbara was using Google Translate on the Polish side. I promised not to say anything: I haven’t spoken to anyone about it.

I confess not to have heard of its most famous recent person: Krzysztof Klenczon. He was a pioneer of bigbit, a 1960s music scene made up of rock and roll, jazz, and twist groups in Eastern Bloc countries. The term was coined as the name “rock and roll” was not approved by authorities in these nations. There’s a statue memorial (he died in Chicago hit by a car in 1982).

Situated on the River Narew. It claims to have Europe’s longest market at 380m. True or not, it’s a fine cobbled open space. No market today, just icecream – waiting for the Warsaw visitors who have this a favourite destination.

Getting here was a delight. Again through fine cultivated farmland: the frequency of settlements is increasing and we are seeing a lot more people. Great to see folks of all ages cycling for normal things – like shopping and going to work in the fields.

Tomorrow to Warsaw.

Poland, Trans Europa

D10 Trans Europa Przwiez – Lomza

Sulwalki is made up of a network of glacial lakes connected by canal. It’s the coldest spot in Poland in winter. Today it may have been, at times, the wettest. The drainage channels and flat landscapes are not unlike parts of the Fens.

The harsh history is never far away. Augustow, near the start of today, – its Jewish population was exterminated in WW2. Leaving town is a fine monument (2019) in memory of the 2000 local militia killed by a 50000 strong Red Army and whose mass graves have not been found. Tonight’s stop was 70% destroyed in WW2 – the rebuilding of the Market Sq only completed after independence from USSR.

Today was refreshingly wet and then a lovely drying headwind. Passing quiet villages, supervised by the every attendant storks. Impressed how they held their ground against the lashing rain. A wee bit bedraggled at times – us too.

The Polish placenames have almost as many constanants as Welsh ones with as few vowels. Luckily the lady in the cafe understood our needs and fresh apple cake appeared. What’s not to like!

Lithuania, Poland

D9 Alytus – Przewiez

“While Poland has a larger overall economy, Lithuania has a higher GDP per capita, indicating a wealthier population on a per-person basis. Poland has a larger nominal GDP (total economic output) than Lithuania, but when considering the size of the population, Lithuania’s GDP per capita is higher.”

Subjectively it felt we were entering a richer area as we crossed the Border into Poland. So maybe there’s regional variation. We came in via the Suwalki Gap, that 65km space between a Russian Enclave and Belarus. It feels as though there’s a song waiting to come out: if Milwauki can have one there’s an opportunity here.

The Border was lightly and politely policed – which sparked the thought: who invented borders?

Borders, in the sense of clearly defined lines on a map with legal and political significance, are a relatively modern concept, largely shaped by the Peace of Westphalia in 1648. This treaty marked a shift from fluid borders based on feudal relationships and natural boundaries to more defined state territories. While earlier forms of territorial demarcationexisted, they were often less precise and more fluid than the borders we know today

The Peace of Westphalia refers to the series of peace treaties signed in 1648 that concluded the Thirty Years’ War and the Eighty Years’ War. These treaties, signed in the Westphalian cities of Münster and Osnabrück, established key principles of international relations, particularly the concept of state sovereignty/

8 million people died in these wars across Central Europe. Plus ca change.

We also entered Central European Time from Eastern European Time.

Today’s ride was through rolling agricultural landscapes then rich forests – the latter seemed far “multicultural” than we’ve seen up to now. Though of course we are observing a track bound slither.

Yellow road signs stand out well. Something we’ll see more over in the next 9 days in Poland.

Lithuania, Trans Europa

D8 Trans Europa Vilnius – Alytus

Leaving Vilnius was a reminder of how a good network of cycle paths adjacent to highways can keep you moving safely. Reinforced by the odd section which was on the highway. Although the majority of drivers were super courteous, the occasional close shave kept the blood flowing.

This also helped with a cooling effect which was needed as the temperatures started to climb – as did we. Previously relaxed muscles made their thoughts known about having to work.

A very pleasant amble through pastural lands and working villages. The butterflies were clearly enjoying the hot breeze as they danced around – or were they avoiding the bigger bugs which also came out to play?

The day ended on a fine old railway line. Tomorrow into Poland, avoiding going left or right: one way to the Russian enclave Kalinigrad, the other to Belarus. Better stick close to Barbara…..

Lithuania, Trans Europa

Trans Europa: Vilnius

Another great old city with lots of 13/14/WhateverC churches of varying dimensions and denominations. Mr MacAlpine of his day must have made a fortune. All the trained stonemasons, etc. Where did the congregation come from – the whole population then is estimated to be 500000.

Today it is 2.9 million. With a lot of church restoration continuing since 1990 liberation. Over the millennia they have changed denominationnans use – some were turned into Russian barracks. All these Baltic countries have established democratic structures, renewed economies, rebuilt – in about the same time we’ve taken not to build one railway.

We’ve been tethered to the old town – new Vilnius is the other side of the river. Still it feels locals use it. Quite quiet, Lidls is bustling. Still can’t find anything.