Day 1, Hook of Holland to Ijmuiden: Copenhagen

Reflecting that Dutch is a similar language to Welsh, to play Scrabble with, we set off to tackle the hills that are ahead of us. Stopping in the Hague for a coffee and to recall a stinking hangover after a soiree at the Ambassador’s residence some years ago, we caught up with the final destination of the Volvo Ocean Race.

A common theme with Harwich is bunkers. Unlike us the Dutch haven’t turned it into a personality trait. No doubt in a year the draw bridges will be up and customs a chore to navigate (grrrr).

We hadn’t expected the Highland cattle nor the cheeky fox. Bikes had been expected though perhaps not in the sheer volume and variety, nor motopeds using the cycle paths. Rohloffs abound. It’s fantastic to see how the infrastructure is not just bike friendly, it’s bike biased.

The landscape art interrupts the views of the sea, telling the tale of the people. On the day Mackintosh’s masterpiece seems to have died, it was good to reflect how art frames our lives: memories etched forever.

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We end up in steel town, though at a prettier marina than Port Talbot offers. A similar beach to Aberavon: the beer is more expensive!

Here’s our route.

An old Penisular Days -1, 0 Copenhagen

You get to Harwich via the politically incorrect town of Manningtree. Harwich has more going for it than I can remember when we set off on the original leg of the North Sea Cycle route in 2002(ish). This time we’re heading across to the Hook of Holland to catch some more of the route via Copenhagen. Navigation aids abound, framed by dominant Felixstowe at the junction of the Stour, Deben and Orwell.

Some fine medieval streets mixed up with some newer bitsnpieces, blending in with Dovercourt. Where do place names come from? Perhaps those were the thoughts of the Pilgrim Fathers as the set sail on the Mayflower; Samuel Pepys’ pen may have hovered with such reflections.

Convincing ourselves the English flags are waving for the world cup, vs in support of the prominent UKIP offices, there is an active community here. Most visibly, the Harwich Society has done fantastic week on the Napoleonic defences. Even the Beacon Hill fort left over from WW11 is having a makeover: volunteers just ignore the daunting scale of the task and make a difference.

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The best thing that can be said about Harwich International is pass through.